Kevin

Kevin has been involved in the custom automotive scene since he bought his first mini-truck in high school and began modifying it. He also has interest in sustainability, DIY projects, and various forms of fabrication. Seeing improved technology of batteries, he has made a concentrated effort over the last few years to transition away from fossil fuels. From lawn care to automotive.

NewAge Products Pro 3.0 Series Storage Cabinet 10-piece Set (Review and Installation)

newage pro series storage cabinet

NewAge Products manufactures various items from outdoor kitchen sets to garage storage solutions. In this article, I’ll cover their Pro 3.0 Series 10-Piece Storage Cabinet. From deliver to installation. Damage Upon Arrival Things definitely didn’t start out well. Unfortunately, multiple cabinets had sustained some damage. I promptly contacted NewAge, and they did send replacement doors and some touchup paint. The outer boxes didn’t appear to be too concerning, but once I got things opened up their were certainly some concerns. Cabinet Damage This was the most concerning damage, one of the “locker cabinets” had a large scratch and was dented. An overhead cabinet door had badly bent aluminum trim, but I was able to easily bend this back into position. Several Scuffed Pieces There was quite a bit of scuff marks inside the cabinets, one worse than the others. Styrofoam packaging was broken on this one and the inner contents were fairly loose inside because of it. For the most part, the scuff marks were able to be wiped off. It didn’t look like anything to worry about, but there was visible damage once opened in various areas. I thought this was an odd choice for shipping the lighting that is used for under the overhead storage shelves. At least they made it in one piece. They were fully shrinked wrap (which I removed before this photo) after being taped to the boxes. Assembly and Install The main cabinets are extremely heavy. It will definitely help to have at least 2 adults to moves these into position. Installing NewAge Storage Cabinets in a Pole Building Since I was installing my cabinets in my shop that’s a pole building, there aren’t many vertical support beams. The builders installed a 2×6 about halfway up the wall which provides additional support. It also established how far back I could install the walls. For mounting surface of the overhead cabinets, I installed a 4×6 beam (see photo below). Once installation location was determined, I placed the first cabinet. From there, I began installing the first overhead cabinet. This can be done with one person if you have something to support the cabinet (see 2×4’s below). However, a second set of hands would make things go eaiser. Continuing along installing the remaining overhead cabinets and using a step platform (and cabinets) for temporary support while installing. Installing the Benchtop Surface Installing the Lighting The included lighting uses adhesive magnets to install below the overhead cabinets. The light is quite warm, I prefer a cool white for lighting and have since replaced this lighting. Pegboard Installation NewAge does offer a pegboard that fits into the opening below the overhead storage and above the benchtop surface. However, I prefer the the steel pegboards from Wall Control. Overall Perception Other than the damage, a very solid product. A few packaging improvements, possibly QA before boxing, and also additional care by the courier will substantially improve the customer experience. It’s very frustrating to receive a product with this amount of damage.

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How to Install a Bi-Fold Door

how to install a bi-fold door

In this post we’ll go through the steps to install a bi-fold door. The installation time took me around 20 minutes. Everything is fairly straight forward, however this is the first bi-fold door I’ve ever installed and it did have to figure out a couple things along the way. I’ll provide some of these lessons learned that weren’t included in the instructions. Particularly with the pivots and hinges. This particular door is by Frameport, and unlike some other designs, this one has several size options, 13 to be exact. I opted for the 6-Panel style. However, louvered designs as well as others are also available. Follow along as we go through the installation process. Required Tools for Installing a Bi-Fold Door The tools for installation were fairly basic and minimal, here’s what I used: Unboxing the Bi-Fold Door After a string of wet or damaged deliveries of larger items recently, I was pleasantly surprised to find this door was delivered free of damage. Bi-Fold Door Hardware Here’s the included hardware: The hardware packs are attached quite secure to the doors, just pull up on the plastic near the arrow to remove. Step 1 Mark Position of Track The instructions that came with the door mention marking the center of your top jamb on each side of the opening and center point. I had mine offset, as I didn’t want the doors recessed that far into the jamb. So, for my particular install, the track was only about an inch from the outer walkway. Step 2 Insert Plastic Guide For the second step, you’ll insert the plastic guide into the track. Note, this guide will be positioned on the side of the doorway that is NOT hinged. As stated in the instructions, make sure the scooped surface of the guide is facing up towards the solid, flat side of the track before mounting. Step 3 Mount the Track Using the previous marked lines in Step 1, you’ll now mount the track using the three flat-top screws. Note: You’ll use position the upper hinge slide bracket (the one with the black set screw) to the side you plan to have the outside of the door hinge. The plastic glide is for the non-hinged door edge. Step 4 Mounting the Bottom Bracket Next step is to install the bottom bracket. I had tile in this area, but if you have carpet you may need to push the bracket down into the carpet so it doesn’t sit too high. I also opted not to drill into the tile to get a screw at the end. The two screws into the door jamb seem to be enough so far. Step 5 Knurled Hinge Pin For this step, you need to thread the knurled hinge pivot all the way into the plastic sleeve. Once you’ve done that, you’ll tap it into place with a mallet (or hammer). The directions called for hammer, I opted to use a mallet. Note: Be sure to thread the knurled pivot all the way in, otherwise when you go to hammer it into the door the plastic sleeve could become damaged. After installing the knurled hinge pivot, the instructions mention back the metal pin out from the sleeve approximately 1/4″. My door opening must be a bit tighter (possibly from the tile). I ended up having keep mine fully threaded. Your results may vary. Then, insert the top two plastic pivots and lightly tap them into position to fully seat. Step 6 Install the Door You’ll now push upright to align and insert upper the plastic pivots into the sliding hinge guide and track guide in the top track. More than likely you’ll have to angle the door to get them into position, then seat the bottom knurled pivot into the serrated slot of the bottom bracket. Step 7 Square Up the Door Now, it’s time square up the door and make final adjustments. Be sure to loosen the set screw on the upper sliding hinge bracket and move it to the necessary position within the track. Once in position, re-tighten the set screw. Test opening and closing the doors to make sure everything operates smoothly. The doors should have equal spacing on all sides. Step 8 Adjust for Height If you need to adjust the height of your bi-fold doors, lift the door from the floor bracket. You’ll rotate the bottom pivot clockwise to raise, or counter-clockwise to lower it. Step 9 Install the Pull Handle For this step, you need to drill a 3/16″ hole in the center of the guide door. Use the long screw from the backside to attach the knob. Finishing Options The instructions do show a few finishing options to hide the metal upper track. I’ll likely add a piece of cedar wood later, but for now, it’s functional. Staining the Bi-Fold Doors I don’t plan to stain our door, but that could change. The majority of the walls in our cabin are a knotty pine that have darkened over the years from UV exposure from the sun. If anyone is considering this same brand of door, there are specific instructions that come with it regarding painting or staining. Notably, the top and bottom edge surfaces are factory-sealed with two coats of UV cured protection. This means they’ll likely needed to sanded if you plan to paint them. They also will not absorb stain. So, if you plan on painting or staining, just be sure to read the instruction that come with your door. Summary All in all quite pleased with this bi-fold door. The lines don’t match up with the trim along the wall, so I’ll see if that bothers me over time. Definitely going to have to wait for the door to darken from UV exposure, as it certainly stands out right now. Otherwise, I may have to consider staining it, possibly a similar color as our exterior doors. The installation was fairly straight forward and easy, so big plus there! It

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Custom Wood Wall Plates for Nest Thermostats

After we bought our cabin, I wanted to make sure to install a smart thermostat. This would allow me to control the temperature setting from anywhere with the app on my phone. If we’re heading over to the cabin in the winter, I can pre-heat the cabin so it’s warmed up before we get there. I don’t know mind the cleaner installation of no wall plate at all (this is what I did at our house), but what you do if there’s a large hole? You could use the plastic wall plate that comes with it, but it didn’t quite feel right with the wood panel walls of the cabin. That’s when I started searching for other options, and found a few on Etsy. On our house there was about a 1/2″ hole in the drywall for the wires going to the thermostat. At our cabin however, we had a slightly large cutout (enough for a 1-gang outlet if I remember right). This is a photo of the Nest backplate mounted over the electrical box. I proceeded installing the thermostat with the included wall plate, but it certainly felt off to me. Certainly felt as though it stuck out like a sore them against the wood paneling, but also with the beige switch and outlet covers below. I’ll likely look at swapping those switch and outlets for something else later, possibly going with a wood wall plate for those as well. So, after a quick search I came across this wooden Nest wall plate on Etsy. This particular seller has different options including the painted design, but I opted for the mountains. It seemed quite fitting for our cabin. Unfortunately the screws that came with it were a bit too short, and I had to pick up some longer ones at the local hardware store. A fairly quick install though, and I think this looks quite a bit better than the plastic wall plate.

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Ryobi Electric Zero Turn Mower – The Review Home Depot and Ryobi Don’t Want You to See

ryobi zero turn mower review

This is an update on my initial review of the Ryobi Zero Turn mower after less than one year of use and subsequent return. Both potential buyers and current owners should be aware of what may very well be imminent battery failure and actions they may need to take. I was genuinely excited when I took ownership of this mower, but less than a year later that quickly faded. Substantial battery degradation has happened to many other owners as well. I tried leaving reviews on both Ryobi and Home Depot’s websites, but they moderate them and chose not to publish mine, so here goes. During this process, I came to realize how terrible Ryobi customer service is. I’ll document these experiences and having to reach to both the Attorney General’s office and Better Business Bureau. Read on… The Battery The battery is the root of the problem. After only 3 months of ownership I already noticed I wasn’t able to mow our 1.86 acres on a single charge. Everything I’ve later researched on lead acid batteries shows that they are not designed to handle anywhere near as many “cycles” as Lithium-ion batteries. The lead acid battery used on this mower seems to be its achilles heal. Approximately 10 months into ownership, I was now charging 3-4 times just to mow our entire property. Knowing the 1-year warranty on the battery was coming up, I called Ryobi. They told me to take it to an authorized repair center that was about 45 minutes away. I called the repair center, and verified when I could drop it off. Dropping the Mower Off at the Ryobi Authorized Repair Center Upon dropping off the mower in May, I was informed it would take 3-4 weeks before they could even look at it. While certainly inconvenient, I realize this is likely peak season for them. In about a 3 weeks, I received a call from the service center who confirmed one of the four battery cores was bad. Worse yet, I was informed the batteries were backordered and weren’t expected for 8 weeks. Battery Backorder I called the service center after 8 weeks had passed for an update (July 2021). This update was not good. I was now told the batteries would not be available until October 22nd. This would now be over 5 months without the mower. That doesn’t include time for the vendor to ship the batteries, arrive at the service center. The service center would also need time to install the batteries. Home Depot and Extended Warranty Customer Service After hearing they didn’t expect batteries until October, I reached out to Home Depot (both a local store and their toll free number. Their customer service is pretty much useless if you haven’t experienced it yourself. They have a 90-day window on mowers so I knew I was outside of that. They advised I reach out to Asurion, who was their previous extended warranty company. I believe they now use All State. Asurion said they could not doing anything since it was still under the factory warranty and advised I reach out to Home Depot. The customer service bounce around was beginning. I’ll leave it at this, but this continued with Ryobi customer support also giving me a runaround and saying there was nothing else they could do. Consumer Warranty Protection Act Realizing I was getting no where with the Ryobi / Home Depot / Asurion 3-ring circus, I started researching other alternatives. For anyone else experiencing similar situations with warranty work not being completed in a timely manner, research the Consumer Warranty Protection Act. When the manufacturer doesn’t meet the Consumer Warrant Act, your next step is likely the Attorney General… Filing a Complaint Against Ryobi with the Attorney General This is what finally got me past some of the unknowledgeable customer service reps that kept giving me the run-around to contact one of the other companies. Ryobi seemingly trains their phone reps to say “I don’t know” or “you should try calling Home Depot” and “there’s nothing else I can do”. Reaching out to the Attorney General’s office (if in the United States, search the Attorney General for your specific state) and you should be able to fill out an inquiry online. At least, that’s what I did for Washington state. After filing a complaint with the Attorney General, I started getting calls from not only Ryobi, but also Asurion and Home Depot. The person from Home Depot who contacted me was part of their Executive Escalations Team. The initial conversations started out well, but then I started receiving several bits of contradiction. She would say one thing, then a week or two later I was told something completely different. The level of customer service was frustrating. It got to the point where I had to only use email to make sure I had everything in writing to send back over to show her “no, this is not what you said last time”. By filing a complaint with the Attorney General’s office the company(s) are given so many days to respond. This likely varies state to state. Home Depot Buy Back After several weeks and months, Home Depot agreed to buy the mower back. They had offered to replace the mower, but there was no way I wanted to deal with anything Ryobi again. During several weeks of conversations, the Home Depot rep tried placing the long delay on the service center. They can’t replace the batteries if Ryobi says they’re backordered and doesn’t send them any. The Executive Escalations rep at first tried telling me I could use my extended warranty from Asurion to have them transport the mower back to Home Depot. If I did this, I would not be eligible for a refund. The closest Home Depot to the authorized service center was only 1.5 miles away. Essentially having to pay $300 (voiding my warranty refund) sounded absolutely absurd. I also had to get my trailer from

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Tesla Lug Nut Removal – Caution, Most Have Caps!

tesla lug nut cap cover removal

If you ever plan to swap out the wheels on your Tesla, you’ll want to invest in this inexpensive tool. This could be to remove a wheel with a flat tire or swapping in or out from a set of winter tires. Tesla models that do not have an aero wheel cover (such as certain wheel options on the Model 3 and Model Y) will have these plastic lug nut covers. If you try using a tire iron or socket on them, they will quickly break. I learned this the hard way. They have a very thin walled designed and are not designed to have any torque applied to them whatsoever. To remove these plastic wheel covers, a lug nut cap cover removal tool set will make things much easier. It’s a essentially a plastic pair of tongs. There’s a raised section that will grip onto the lug nut cap covers. This allows you to easily get a grip on the lug nut covers and pull them off. Read on as we provide more information and tips on remove the lug nut covers from your Tesla, as well as options if you get a flat tire. Lug Nut Cap Cover Removal Tool I’ve read other articles where you can try and use a pair of flathead screwdrivers, but this can cause scratching. The first time we got a flat tire, I tried calling Tesla Roadside assistance, only to be informed that I was too far from their service center for them to provide service How To Remove Tesla Lug Nut Cap Covers Step 1: Grab your lug nut cap cover removal tool. Step 2: Insert the removal tool over the lug nut. Step 3: Press inward on the removal tool to apply pressure, ensuring they have gripped onto the cap covers. Step 4: Simply pull outward to remove the cap cover. What If You Get a Flat Tire on Your Tesla? Since Tesla’s and most other electric vehicles don’t have spare tires, you’ll find yourself with fewer options for getting back on the road. Several tire shops likely won’t have replacement tires in stock either. We’ll explore some of those now. Tesla Roadside Assistance While Tesla Roadside Assistance is free, it’s typically for a certain amount of time. Per their website: Tesla Roadside Assistance is a complimentary service offered under a Tesla warranty or some Extended Service Agreements. Please refer to the terms and conditions in your warranty document or service agreement to determine whether you are eligible for roadside assistance. https://www.tesla.com/sites/default/files/downloads/roadside-assistance-policy-en.pdf Tesla Roadside Assistance is available 365 days a year, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, however, you may find yourself having to wait a long period of time before someone is able to get to your location. Tow Truck Service In some cases you may find that you need to have your Tesla towed. Tesla strongly recommends that only flatbed trucks are used. If you find yourself having to call a towing service, make sure to specifically request for a flatbed. Also worth noting, you need to make sure to put your Tesla into tow mode in order for a tow truck to transport it. My neighbor works for the state highway patrol, and recently had a tow truck driver come out to tow a Tesla, only to have to leave because the owner was not there to put it into tow mode. We’ll add a new article on having a Tesla towed soon. Summary I’m not sure why certain manufacturers including Tesla opt for lug nut caps. Seems just having an enclosed lug nut would get the job done. However, since most Tesla wheels do have lug nut covers, having one of these tools in your glovebox at all times can certainly come in handy.

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How to Clean Tesla Seats

Premium seating materials now come standard across all the Tesla lineup models. Tesla seating surfaces are designed to repel stains, however, Tesla does recommend regular cleaning to maintain an as-new appearance. It’s essential to keep them clean and protected from the elements to keep them at their best. Learning how to clean your Tesla seats properly will go a long way in ensuring that you do not have to replace these costly materials prematurely. You should wipe any spills and chemical residues from interior surfaces of your Tesla as soon as possible. Use a soft cloth that’s been dampened with warm water and a non-detergent soap. Tesla recommends wiping in a circular motion, then wiping dry with a soft, lint-free cloth. Micro-fiber towels are a great choice. In the article below, you will learn about the best methods for cleaning Tesla car seats, including ways that you can protect your seats from common sources of dirt or damage like spills, pets, and UV light from sun exposure. Precautions Regarding Your Tesla Seats Tesla warns that aftermarket seat covers may inhibit the occupancy sensor’s sensitivity sensor. They may also cause staining or other damage, so be cautious of what seat covers you purchase, if you plan to do so. Tesla Active Road Reduction I believe this is in 2021+ Model X and S only, but they are also equipped with microphones in the front seats for active road noise reduction. These must not be exposed to liquids. Make sure when cleaning in these areas that you do not over-saturate the area of the seats where these microphones are located. Note the blue highlighted areas below for where these microphones are located. Blue Jean Stains on your Tesla Seats and Other Common Stains This is common on the white interior seats. Tesla recommends promptly treating dye transfer from clothing. It also mentions again to avoid harsh chemicals including certain cosmetics. I’ve heard sun tan lotion can also cause staining. How to Clean Vegan Leather Tesla Seats In 2019, Tesla made the announcement that moving forward, the seats in the Model 3 would be made of 100% polyurethane; this is a vegan-friendly alternative to genuine leather and, as such, requires special care during the cleaning process. Improper cleaning practices, including the use of harsh chemicals, can significantly impact the material’s life expectancy. The seat’s color can fade to the extent that you may need to either replace the seats entirely or live with the effects. Tesla’s vegan leather seats require careful cleaning practices that differ from what you would do if you were simply cleaning a basic cloth seat, which is covered below.  Vacuum the Car and Seats Before doing anything else, you will need to vacuum the seats. Otherwise, debris lodged within the seat’s fabrics will be smeared against the surface and only further grounded into the car seat. Be sure to vacuum any loose debris first. You can certainly use a household vacuum, but this can be hard to maneuver. More suitable alternatives include: Shop Vacuums: A good shop vacuum, like the one found here on Amazon, will have a lot more suction power than most household vacuums.  Local Car Washes: You can always drive to a local car wash, where there are usually powerful vacuums available.  Handheld Vacuums: These are quite useful for getting into places that are difficult to reach with larger vacuums, like the space underneath the car seat or the space between the seat and the center console. Removing Pet Hair from Seats Pet hair can be challenging to remove, as it sure does tend to stick around. Fortunately, there are many methods for removing pet hair from your Tesla’s seats that won’t harm their vegan leather quality. You may notice some persistent strands of hair, even after you have vacuumed the entire car out. You can pick the remaining strands up by using a sticky pet hair remover. These come in handy for removing pet hair from articles of clothing as well. Use Warm Water for Routine Cleaning Avoid harsh chemicals as much as possible. These will only further degrade the fabric, making matters worse. For routine cleaning, you are encouraged to use only warm water. Follow these steps for routine seat cleaning: Wet a microfiber cloth with warm water. Gently wipe across the surface of the fabric using the wet microfiber cloth. Use another, dry cloth to wipe the surface dry.  Use a Mild Soap or Detergent for Deep Cleaning If the need arises for you to use something more potent than just water to remove tougher stains, you should start by trying a mild detergent and water solution; this should help refresh the car’s inside without potentially degrading the material the seats are made of. First, you’ll need to make or choose your desired mild detergent solution:  Natural Solution: Mix 2 parts vinegar to 1 part water in a clean spray bottle.  Laundry Detergent: These products are already formulated to handle potentially sensitive materials like artificial leather. Dilute the detergent with warm water, approximately one teaspoon to every 16 ounces of water. Add the mixture to a spray bottle. All-Purpose Cleaners: Opt for Biokleen Spray, which is marketed as an eco-friendly alternative to traditional cleaners. Note: You should also have a second spray bottle with clean, warm water present for rinsing purposes.  Then, follow these steps to clean your seats: Test out your cleaning solution by applying it to a small area of the seat that is not visible. If it doesn’t appear to stain the material, you can proceed by applying the cleaner to small sections one-by-one until all the seats are cleaned. Use a microfiber cloth to rub the solution into the seats.  Don’t leave the cleaning solutions to air dry; this can cause the surface of the seats to become stained with soap marks. After you have cleaned a section, immediately rinse it off with warm water. Wipe the seat dry with another clean cloth.  Note: Always use separate cloths

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Tesla Custom Light Show

tesla custom light show

With Tesla’s 2021 “Holiday Update” that began rolling out around Christmas Eve, they added a new light show to the Toybox, but also the ability to create your own custom light shows! This is available on the Tesla Model 3 and Model Y, as well as the refreshed 2021 Model S and Model X. The new update included a new light show (new soundtrack and sequence compared to what was available on the first gen Model X. With this latest update, you can use your own soundtrack and light sequence! We’ve compiled a couple great resources for how to design your own custom Tesla light show or where to download files that others have already created. Read on to learn more! How to Create Your Own Custom Tesla Light Show Once again, it appears this will only work for Tesla Model 3’s and Y’s as well as the refreshed 2021 Model S’s and and X’s. The open-sourced software you’ll need to use is called xLights. Audio File and Command Lines You’ll need either an .mp3 or .wav file for the audio, however WAV is recommended. Light shows are also currently limited to 5 minutes of run and the number of command lines you can use in xLights is also limited. Step by Step Instructions This site here is a great resouce, Tesla Light Show page on GitHUB by the user JVB-Tesla has all the information you should need. How to Download and Setup an Already Made Custom Light Show TeslaLightShare.io is a great resource for custom Tesla Light Show’s. This site has a collection of files created by various individuals who have uploaded their creations to share. Projected Tesla Logo From New Matrix Headlights It appears that Model 3’s and Y’s produced possibly in November 2021 and later received updated matrix headlights. What are matrix headlights you might ask? They are comprised of a cluster of LED’s. These cluster allow for “adaptive lighting” in various situations such as on turns. It’s expected that Tesla will incorporate adaptive lighting for these headlights in an upcoming software update. This video posted on Twitter was one of the first to show the new Model 3/Y matrix headlights: pic.twitter.com/vbyxp5jf1R — Paul Kelly ?? (@shortword) October 9, 2021

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DeWalt DW735X Portable Planer and Stand – Assembly and Review

dewalt dw735x planer and stand

The DeWalt DW735X Planer is one of the top portable planers currently on the market. I recently purchased the DW735X with DW7350 stand as a combo deal. What’s the Difference Between the DeWalt DW735 and the DW735X? The only difference betweeen the DeWalt DW735 and DW735X is extra components that are included with the DW735X. These additions are an infeed and also outfeed table and an extra set of planer knives for the cutter head. In fact, if you order a DW735X, the planer itself will be marked as the DW735 model. Does the DeWalt Planer Come with Blades Already Installed? Yes, the blades are already installed. If you’re not familiar with DeWalt planers and purchase a DW735X, it might be confusing to see blades within the package. I had to double-check on this before turning it on that a set was in fact installed. This is the extra set of blades that comes with the DW735X and will not be included with the DW735. Does a Planer Make a Lot of Sawdust? Yes. This was the sawdust of just a few 1×4’s I ran through. Granted, I made multiple passes, but this can get messy fast. A dust collection system is definitely recommended and will be on my list for future upgrades. Where is the DeWalt DW735X Made? The DeWalt DW735X Planer is manufactured in Taiwan. Assembly of the DW735X Planer DeWalt Planers are just about ready to be used straight out of the box. For the DW735 (and 735X), you’ll need to install the Depth Adjustment Crank Handle. The steps are pretty straight forward: Note: The Crank Handle Shaft has a keyed, flat surface on one side. Specs for the DeWalt DW735 and DW735X DeWalt DW7350 Heavy Duty Mobile Planer Stand The DeWalt Mobile Planer Stand has a solid 5 star review on both Amazon and other sites I checked. It does, however, come with a couple design quirks I found to be odd. Use of the foot pedal is quite awkward, especially with the cross bar support: The second is the fact they used two nuts rather than welding a nut to the lower base to attach the leveling legs. You’ll find holes pre-drilled (and labeled) to fit the DW735 (and DW735X) as well as the DW733/DW734. This upper shelf is made of particle board. Other Stand Options You can always mount the DeWalt Planer to a bench or look at universal planer stand options. There are stationary and rolling stand options available from various manufacturers on Amazon and through other retailers. Of course, there’s also the DIY route of welding your own cart or building one out of wood. Operation of the DeWalt Planer I haven’t used a planer since my dad helped me with a wood project back in high school. A friend of his had some weather oak. Just a few passes on the planer at the wood shop at the local Navy base had it looking pristine. Using this planer, I certainly needed some tips on settings. This video from Make Haven provides an excellent overview: Cost of the DeWalt DW735X The DW735X currently retails for about $700. It was middle of November when I was looking to purchase one, so I was in search of Black Friday and Cyber Monday deals. Deals seemed quite limited, but I did come across a great sale at Acme Tools that also included the stand for $599. Amazon Prime Day apparently had the planer by itself for around $500 earlier in the year. The DW7350 Planer Stand retails for around $150. How much is the DeWalt 735X currently on Amazon? The prices do fluctuate, check below: How much is the DeWalt 735X with stand combo?

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How to Build a Hidden Door Pool Cue Rack

This is another in-progress project I’m working on for the cabin. With the scrap wood left over from the Murphy bed cabinet I had enough to build a door. There’s a few kits available on the market for hidden doors, and specifically hidden doors with pool cue racks, but one’s I came across started out at $1200 USD and were made of particle board. With no particle board currently in the cabin, I didn’t want to start adding any. I’m still a novice with furniture woodworking, so I called upon my brother-in-law to give me a hand over at his shop. Some of our rough sketch work to figure out what we were trying to build. Definitely don’t try to follow our chicken-scratch. Planning out for your own build certainly advised though, measure twice, cut once. Building the Main Box of the Hidden Door Some photos as we built the initial box structure of the door, I’ll add more descriptions later. Several clamps keep everything in place for the glue to dry. In this photo, you see multiple sections for the back panel. I may have been able to get one single piece from the Murphy bed scrap wood cut differently, oh well. This ended up with 3 pieces. The upper shelf was positioned to hide the gap at the top. We also placed a trim piece to hide the lower section. Shelves for the Hidden Door Pool Cue Rack Originally we intended to have the barrel staves go flush to the edge of the door, however, re-thought our decision on this. The overall intent is to make the door as inconspicuous as possible and will have some fixed out trim. Based on this, the edge of the door will be hidden when closed. After spending a good amount of time figuring out how to notch the staves to fit flush, the idea was scratched. This image also shows a couple pool cues we used to determine rough placement of the shelves. I didn’t snap a photo, but we had shelves cut to width and traced the contour once the staves were cut to size. A fairly quick cut on the bandsaw, one last dry fit, and the shelves were ready to be drilled. Drilling the Shelves Forstner bits were used to drill the holes for the shelves. The lower shelf was drilled to a depth of 3/8″ an inch using the depth gauge on the drill press. The upper shelf was drilled all the way through. Routing the Edges A router was used to give a softer edge to the holes, a bit of a chamfered edge. Barrel Stave Biscuit Joints Here’s an image of a biscuit joint. Glue should be strong enough to hold the barrel staves in place, but I will also have screws from the door sides also holding them into place. The screws will be countersunk and plugged. Here’s the “lower shelf” where the pool cues will rest. Using a Forstner bit always lives a detent in the middle, but I plan to glue in some felt pieces later. Dry Fit Before Final Assembly of the Shelves A quick dry fit before the shelves were screwed into place (from the side and back). The barrel staves will be stained and final assembly later. Primary Structure Complete Here’s the end of our second day of work. The door was now ready to haul over to the cabin. I brought it back over to my house in our enclosed trailer. The door, along with the Murphy bed cabinet plywood will be hauled over to the cabin soon. I’m planning to use five standard door hinges. If they don’t work, I’ll look at other hinge options. At the Cabin and Hinged I was surprised, but I was actually able to fit the hidden door, all but two pieces of the Murphy bed cabinet, laminate flooring, and a handful of other items into our Tesla Model X. Didn’t have to wait on my dad or neighbor to help haul it over in their truck after all. Here’s the initial install: Hinges for the Pool Cue Hidden Door Rack There are some “specialty” hinges for hidden doors. Some of the ones I saw didn’t seem they would give the right pivot point I was looking for. I ended up installing a total of 5 standard door hinges. The package stated 2 hinges were rated for up to 100 pounds, 3 hinges could handle 150 pounds. I’m sure this door is quite a bit lighter than 150 pounds, but figured I’d go with 5 hinges just to help prevent any sagging. Re-Trimming the Doorway I pulled the cedar trim and had to cut and/or re-position several pieces. I also cut down a wider piece for the top trim that would keep the original trim location at the top, but also was now tall enough to cover the top of the door. Notice the light color of the knotty pine where the trim used to be. The previous owner had several pictures and other items on the wall. Where these were located showed varying color depending on how long they were there for. He had mentioned give it a couple years and it will darken. Wood Plugs My brother-in-law made some wood plugs from some scrap wood from the same plywood. They have a slight taper and with a bit of wood glue, will permanently hide counter-sunk screws. I used a Japanese flush cut trim handsaw for this. As the name implies, it gives a nice, flush cut. More on this tool later. What’s Next? I still have some sanding and staining on the door itself to finish up. Most of this work likely won’t happen until the spring when the weather starts to warm up. I’ll also work on a compartment for the bottom to store additional pool table items like the brush and extra chalk. The door is also going to require some shimming, I have some gaps on

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How to Build and Install a Murphy Bed Kit

I recently purchased a Rockler I-Semble Murphy bed kit. This kit comes with all of the hardware needed to build a Murphy wall bed, minus the wood to build the cabinet. It also comes with dimensions for the plywood cuts to build the cabinet. I took advantage of using the cutting service at our local home improvement store rather than leaving with full sheets of plywood to have to cut myself. The associate let me know the upper headboard is below the minimum cut size. More than likely, I could have had it cut off first. Instead, I left with just one piece that still needed to be cut. With the left over “scrap” plywood, I had enough to build a hidden door. More to come on this build as well. Rockler I-Semble Murphy Bed Kits The I-Semble Murphy Bed Hardware Kits are available for vertical and horizontal configuration. They offer kits for twin, full, and queen size beds. Based on the room I’ll be installing our Murphy bed in, vertical was the only option for us. We also opted for the queen size. The Hardware Here’s everything that comes with the kit (minus the packs of bolts, nuts, and screws). Again, you have to purchase your own plywood for the cabinet. It also does not include #8 x 2″ screws, dowels, or wood glue. Also not listed in the instructions was an 8mm Allen wrench, more on that later. Tools Required (Not Included) Per the instructions (the copy I received was last revised December 2018), these are the required tools that are not included: Drill Saw Circular Saw or Table Saw Stud Finder Tape Measure Pencil 3/8″ Nut Driver or Socket Wrench I lightly used an impact driver for the bed frame Phillips Screwdriver Doweling Jig Drill Bits 13/64″, 5/16″, 3/16″, 5/32″, 3/8″, and 27/64″ #8 Countersink Bit 8mm Allen Wrench This was not listed in the instructions Quality Control Issue When I picked up the Long Center Frame Support, I could hear something rattling inside. I certainly didn’t want to have this sound occur every time the bed was raised or lowered, so I tried getting whatever it was out. I assumed it was either a piece of welding wiring or a piece of metal that was punched out. With a flashlight looking inside of one of the holes, it appeared to be a round piece of metal. It also sounded as though there were multiple. I tried getting it out through the center hole, but it wasn’t going to be easy. Next, I double-checked the instructions to confirm the center hole on the end bracket wasn’t used for anything, which it wasn’t. I then drilled a larger hole into the bracket to make getting these pieces out much easier. After widening the hole, these pieces came out fairly easily. I assume a stamping machine was used to punch the holes out on this piece and it wasn’t fully cleared when the end brackets were welded on. With that out of the way, it was time to start assembling the bed frame. Murphy Bed Frame Assembly Following the I-Semble instructions, everything is fairly straight forward. There are several bolts, nuts, and washers however, so it can be a bit time consuming. I laid out all the parts and began assembly. To speed things up, I did use an impact driver, but made sure not to apply any torque and used a socket and ratchet to get everything “hand tight”. Here’s the frame fully assembled: Slat Assembly I missed this at first, but there are actually two different slat caps. The double slat caps are intended to be used on the middle. I used them on the outside as well and ended up having to use a flat screwdriver to pry them back up and re-do the slats I had already completed. Per the instructions, you want to leave Row 8 and Row 20 open. This is to allow room to later install other pieces. Also, on queen size beds you’ll leave Row 11 open as well. I missed the queen size call out and had to remove Row 11. My inspectors calling out that I should not have installed Row 11 yet: Tip: I found it easiest to install the left and right slat caps, then push the middle cap into place. The instructions do you mention you may need to use a mallet, but I didn’t find this necessary. Your results may very. Cabinet Build The instructions call for the cabinet build to be done first, but I knew it was going to be a while before I was going to pick up the plywood. So, I assembled the bed frame first. For the queen size Murphy bed, you’ll need 5 sheets of 4’x8′ plywood. Wood prices have skyrocketed in the last year or two, but have started coming down a bit. I spent $71.58 USD for each sheet in November 2021. I went with a finished maple plywood, it has a veneer on one side. The veneer side will be used for the inner portion of my cabinet and I will either stain or add slats to the exterior. My goal is to get it assembled, then I’ll focus on some aesthetics later. Plywood Cuts This is as far as my build has gone. I have the sheets cut, but need to haul them over to our cabin and then begin assembly. The instructions do not include a cut diagram, so I mapped out what I thought would be the best cut layout for our queen size bed. Feel free to use these for your own reference, but I’m not liable. Be sure to verify your required measurements. Again, this is for the queen size Murphy bed. And here’s the cut layout I went with, once again, for a queen size bed: Assembling the Cabinet Here we go, cabinet time! At first I thought I’d have to bring most of the plywood for the cabinet

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