Projects

Ski-tastic Deck Balusters: A Unique Twist for Your Mountain Cabin Deck on a Budget

snow ski upcycling for deck balusters.

When you’re decking out your mountain cabin, it’s natural to want something that captures the essence of the outdoors and your adventurous spirit. If you’re looking for an unconventional and cost-effective way to make your deck stand out, consider using snow skis as deck balusters. This creative approach combines rustic aesthetics with a touch of adventure without breaking the bank. In this blog post, we’ll guide you through the process of repurposing snow skis as deck balusters and explain how this option can save you money compared to traditional balusters. Enclosing Our Deck My wife wanted to fully enclose the deck at our cabin so that we could have our dogs there too without worry of them running off. The previous owner built a large, 900sf deck, but it wasn’t fully enclosed. With how expensive wood has gotten, I chose to go with a more creative approach by upcycling old snow skis that might wife picked up. We were able to get some of the skis for free at our neighborhood “free” day where neighbors put items they no longer want at the end of the driveway. She also found several pairs at Goodwill for only $1-2 when they had the clearance sales. Why Snow Skis? Using snow skis as deck balusters is a brilliant idea that brings a touch of winter magic to your mountain cabin year-round. Here’s why this approach is not only unique but also budget-friendly: Materials and Tools Needed Before you get started, gather the following materials and tools: Installation Steps Follow these installation steps for your budget-friendly ski balusters: Conclusion Repurposing snow skis as deck balusters is not only a unique design choice but also a budget-friendly one. At the current price of cedar 2x2s, choosing used skis that were free or only $1-2 per pair is a much cheaper option that allows you to achieve a stunning deck makeover without breaking the bank. So, embrace the charm of ski-tastic deck balusters, save some money, and enjoy the outdoors in style!

DIY Foosball Revival: Upcycling an Old Foosball Table with Solid Wood Craftsmanship!

custom diy foosball table from upcycling an old and neglected foosball table with inspirational concept renderings

Here’s an upcoming project we’ll be working on, a DIY foosball table with some recycled parts. I was dropping off my daughter to a birthday party at a friend’s house and along the way we saw an old, broken down foosball table someone had put at the end of their driveway with a “free” sign. When I asked my daughter if she wanted to take a closer look at it, there was no hesitation. With the cheap particle board construction that was already damaged, we immediately had visions of building a new structure out of solid wood. While it will be several more weeks before we start looking at building this, here’s some inspiration I generated using MidJourney: AI Generated Foosball Table Renderings MidJourney didn’t always place handles or get the playfield in the right orientation, but I think it’s still a great tool to generate some ideas. I won’t have anywhere near the time, money, tools, or skills to build anything near these, but it can prompt some ideas. Solid Wood Foosball Table Renderings Futuristic Foosball Table Designs Here’s a couple more designs I made with a futuristic concept. Acrylic sign panels could be an interesting way to go… The Build It will be a several more weeks before we start the build, but we’ll add more to this post once we do!

Simple Oak Barrel Stave Key Holder Rack

Oak barrels are widely known for their use in the production of wine and whiskey. These barrels are made from high-quality oak wood, which makes them a popular choice for upcycling projects. One such project is turning an oak barrel stave into a rustic key holder rack. In this article, we will guide you through the steps involved in upcycling an oak barrel stave and attaching hooks to create a rustic key holder rack. Step 1: Acquire an Oak Barrel Stave The first step in this project is to acquire an oak barrel stave. You can purchase these staves from online retailers, home decor stores, or even your local distillery. If you’re lucky, you might find one at a flea market or garage sale. Make sure that the stave is in good condition and free from any cracks or splits. I ended up buying a batch of staves off of eBay for my projects. Step 2: Clean and Sand the Stave Once you have the oak barrel stave, the next step is to clean and sand it. Use a soft-bristled brush to remove any dirt or debris from the stave. Then, use sandpaper to sand the stave. Start with a coarse grit sandpaper to remove any rough spots or imperfections on the surface of the stave. Then, move on to a finer grit sandpaper to smooth out the surface of the stave. You can sand it by hand or use a power sander. I used by DeWalt Cordless Orbital Sander. Step 3: Measure and Mark the Stave The next step is to measure and mark the stave where you want to attach the hooks. Use a ruler to measure the length of the stave and mark the center point. I ordered this 58 Piece Black Small Key Hook set off Amazon for mine. Then, measure and mark the distance from the center point to each end of the stave. This will help you determine where to place the hooks evenly. Step 4: Finish the Stave The final step is to finish the stave. You can use a clear coat or stain to enhance the natural beauty of the oak wood. Apply the finish to the stave using a brush or rag, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Allow the finish to dry completely before hanging the key holder rack. Step 5: Attach the Hooks Now it’s time to attach the hooks to the stave. You can purchase hooks from any hardware store or online retailer. Make sure that the hooks are the appropriate size for the stave. Place the hooks on the stave at the marked points and use a pencil to mark where you want to drill the holes for the screws. Once you have marked the spots for the holes, use a drill to make the holes in the stave. Then, attach the hooks to the stave using screws. Make sure that the hooks are securely attached to the stave and that they are evenly spaced. Step 6: Hang the Key Holder Rack To hang the key holder rack, you can use picture hangers or keyhole hangers. I simply drilled screws into the stave. Screws could be countersunk and wood plugs used if desired. If you are using picture hangers, attach them to the back of the stave using screws. If you are using keyhole hangers, use a router or a chisel to make the keyholes in the back of the stave. Then, insert the hangers into the keyholes. Conclusion In conclusion, upcycling an oak barrel stave into a rustic key holder rack is a fun and easy project that can add a touch of rustic charm to any home decor. With just a few simple steps, you can turn an old oak barrel stave into a beautiful and functional key holder rack. So, go ahead and give it a try!

1999 Ford Ranger Engine Swap From a Ford Explorer 5.0L V8

For many car enthusiasts, tinkering with cars is a passion that never fades away. Whether it’s a small upgrade or a full custom build, there’s always something new to learn and improve upon. For me, I stepped away from the custom automotive scene several years ago, but am getting back into it again. In this project, we’ll be diving into a popular engine swap involving a 302 5.0L V8 from a Ford Explorer into a Ford Ranger. Despite these types of swaps being done for over a couple decades now, it can be difficult to find complete information on the subject. There’s also several variables between different years of these vehicles, but unfortunately some contradicting information online too. I’ll attempt to document my swap in as much detail as possible in this post and update as progress continues as it pertains to a 1999 Ford Ranger 3.0L V6 extended cab getting a 5.0L V8 from a 2001 Ford Explorer. Why the Swap? This one pretty much comes down to more power. I’ve put some 33″ all-terrain tires with later plans of going with larger tires on the Ranger. The intent was to use it around our property, but also make it street legal for occasional pavement use. With the engine shot, and knowing the factory 3.0L V6 is more than a bit underwhelming in the horsepower department (152hp) to say the least, I decided to look for a Ford Explorer with the 5.0L V8 as a donor. The 5.0L V8 from the Explorer has around 215hp isn’t much more than the 4.0L V6 that was also an option on the Ranger at 207hp. The 5.0L V8 does appear to have more aftermarket options for getting more horsepower though. Parts Needed It’s highly recommended to get a full donor vehicle to perform this swap. These are the primary components you’ll need from the Explorer to perform the swap: The Build Vehicle This is the build vehicle, a 1999 Ford Ranger XLT extended cab 4×4 with the lackluster 3.0L V6. Vehicle 1999 Ford Ranger XLT Extended Cab Engine 3.0L V6 (Blown Head Gasket) Transmission 5-Speed Manual Drivetrain 4WD Mileage 145,XXX The Donor From my initial research, the ideal Explorer engine for a 1999-2000 Ford Ranger would be a 1998-2001 Ford Explorer. 1998 Ranger’s do not have the Passive Anti Theft System (PATS), more on that later. This year range of Ranger and Explorer are supposed to be one of the most “plug and play” swaps, I’ll see how that goes. This is certainly a higher mileage donor, but I believe it may have been rebuilt at some point. My goal for this project is to just get things running. I may look at getting another engine to rebuild later. Vehicle 2001 Ford Explorer XLT Engine 5.0L V8 – 302 Transmission Automatic Drivetrain AWD Mileage 177,XXX The Ranger V8 Swap Process (High Level Overview) The engine swap process can be a bit daunting, requiring a lot of patience, hard work, and knowledge. Here’s a high level look at the work required. From initial research I’ve done, these should be the steps required (I’ll update this section if needed as I work through this project). Pulling the Engines To make it easier to pull the engine, transmission, and transfer case from the Ranger while keeping them bolted together, I ended up using a spot welder cutting tool to remove the front radiator core support. More pics to follow on this. On the Explorer, I opted to cut out the entire inner support for the fenders as well. Disconnecting Lines/Harnesses – Label, Document, Take Pictures To remove the engines, several wiring harnesses, hoses, and other lines need to be disconnected. I took several pictures and labeled items that were disconnected. It might be weeks before I get a chance to get everything together, and I wanted to eliminate any future guess work. Quick Connect Lines There’s a few quick connect lines that need to be disconnected including A/C lines and a fuel line. The fuel line on the Explorer had a decent amount of corrosion and took me a while to remove. I bought this Master Quick Disconnect Tool Set off of Amazon. I went through multiple rounds of lubricant spray and let it soak over night. Going between the plastic disconnects and metal, I eventually tried using a pair of pliers to force the tool in, and eventually it went. Motor Mounts I’m currently working on swapping the 5.0L motor mounts over to the Ranger. The driver-side mounts have the bolts positioned differently. I’ve read where some people have re-used the Ranger mounts and re-drilled or “slotted” the holes in the motor bracket to acomodate. I wanted to make sure things were properly aligned, so I’ll be swapping the 5.0L V8 mounts over. Unfortunately, Ford’s design for mounting these does not make it easy to unbolt, and this is where I’m at right now. Note: I’m not sure if the 4.0L V6 or if the 2.5L 4-cylinder have different mounts or if they might be the same as the 3.0L V6 Ranger or 5.0L V8 Explorer. What’s Next? Once the motor mounts are squared away, I’ll be ready to drop the engine, transmission, and transfer case into the Ranger. Once that is done, it will be time to start getting everything wired back up and various lines connected. Ford Ranger V8 Swap FAQ

What is Stamped Concrete? – Plus Project Ideas!

Stamped concrete is a popular and versatile paving material that is commonly used for various types of flooring, patios, driveways, and sidewalks. It is created by stamping a mold into freshly poured concrete to create patterns and textures that mimic other materials such as stone, brick, and tile. Stamped concrete is a cost-effective and low-maintenance alternative to traditional paving materials and can be customized to suit a wide range of styles and design preferences. In this article, we will explore what stamped concrete is, its benefits, the process of installation, and some design ideas. What is Stamped Concrete? Stamped concrete is a type of decorative concrete that is created by stamping a pattern or texture onto freshly poured concrete. This technique is achieved by using specialized stamps that are pressed into the wet concrete to create a pattern or texture. Once the concrete has cured, a sealer is applied to protect the surface and enhance the color of the concrete. Stamped concrete can be designed to resemble a wide range of materials such as brick, stone, slate, tile, and even wood. This versatility makes it an ideal option for creating a variety of outdoor living spaces and hardscaping features such as patios, driveways, walkways, and pool decks. Benefits of Stamped Concrete There are many benefits to using stamped concrete for your outdoor living spaces and hardscaping projects. Some of the main advantages include: The Process of Installing Stamped Concrete The process of installing stamped concrete involves several steps. Here is a brief overview of the process: Design Ideas for Stamped Concrete Stamped concrete can be customized to suit a wide range of design preferences and styles. Here are some design ideas to consider for your stamped concrete projects: Sealing Stamped Concrete Sealing your stamped concrete helps act as a moisture repellent. It eliminates or reduces water and contaminants from penetrating into the porous concrete. It also gives a finished look. Sealants come in various finishes from satin to gloss. Here’s a photo showing the difference between our back patio as it was getting sealed. This particular sealant didn’t have the high-gloss, wet look when dry (see the picture above), however, compared to the raw concrete it makes a huge difference. Summary Overall, stamped concrete is a versatile and cost-effective paving material that offers many benefits. It can be customized to suit a wide range of design preferences and styles and requires minimal maintenance compared to other paving materials. With proper installation and maintenance, stamped concrete can provide a durable and long-lasting surface for your outdoor living spaces and hardscaping projects.

How to Winterize Your Vacation Home or Cabin

Winterizing your vacation home or cabin is an important part of ownership. Not only does it help protect your property from the elements and keep your energy bills low, but it also helps you avoid expensive repairs down the road. Whether you’re getting ready for a winter getaway or just want to make sure that everything is in good shape when spring rolls around, here are some tips on how to winterize your vacation home or cabin. First, inspect the exterior of your home for any damage that may have occurred over the winter months. Make sure that all of the windows and doors are sealed tightly to prevent drafts, and check gutters and downspouts for blockages. If there is any loose shingles or damage to siding, take care of those repairs as soon as possible. Next, winterize the water system to prevent pipes from freezing. Start by draining all of the faucets and toilets in the house, then disconnect garden hoses and insulate any exposed pipes with foam insulation. If you have an outdoor swimming pool, winterize it as well by clearing out debris, draining the water, and covering it with a winterizing tarp. Winterize your heating system to ensure that you stay comfortable all winter long. Have your furnace inspected by a qualified technician and replace the filters if necessary. Make sure to keep an eye on carbon monoxide levels in the home as well, since this is a silent yet deadly winter hazard. Windows and Doors Insulate windows and doors – Sealing any gaps or cracks around windows and doors with caulk or weather stripping can help keep cold air from entering your home. It’s also a good idea to use window film to provide extra insulation in the winter months. Install storm shutters – Installing storm shutters can help protect your windows from debris during a snowstorm. Heavy Snow Areas When it comes to heavy snowfall, prevention is key for keeping your home safe and secure. Taking time to properly prepare your home during the warmer months can help reduce the risk of serious damage caused by a heavy snowstorm. Here are some simple steps you can take to protect your home from heavy snow: 1. Clean out gutters and downspouts – Cleaning out your gutters and downspouts before a heavy snowstorm can help prevent the buildup of snow around your house. This can help reduce the amount of stress on your roof, as well as keep water away from the foundation of your home. 2. Trim trees – Trimming overhanging tree branches can help prevent them from breaking off and causing damage to your home during a heavy snowstorm. 3. Check your roof – Checking the condition of your roof before a snowstorm can help ensure that it is strong enough to support the weight of the snow. If you detect any weak spots, have them repaired as soon as possible. 4. Clear walkways and driveways – Clearing your walkways and driveway of snow before a storm can help reduce the amount of shoveling you will need to do afterwards. It’s also a good idea to apply a coat of de-icer after the snow has stopped, as this will make it easier to remove any remaining snow and ice. 5. Snow Buildup – Make sure snow does not build up next to the house, especially against wood siding or in other areas where melted snow can get into areas to cause possible damage. Cedar siding such as this can become damaged, several home owners will install metal roofing a few feet from the bottom of their house or cabin to prevent snow contact with the wood. By taking the time to properly prepare your home for a heavy snowfall, you can help reduce the risk of damage and keep your family safe throughout the winter months. Following these simple steps can make a huge difference in protecting your home from heavy snow. Additional Tips Have emergency supplies on hand – It’s always a good idea to have emergency supplies such as flashlights, batteries and food ready in case of a power outage caused by a heavy snowstorm. Monitor weather reports – Staying up to date on local weather reports can help you plan ahead and be prepared for any severe winter storms headed your way. Take time to familiarize yourself with the National Weather Service’s winter storm safety tips, as this can give you useful information in case of an emergency. By taking the time to winterize your vacation home or cabin, you can rest assured that it will remain in good condition throughout the winter months. Regular maintenance and inspections are key to ensuring that your property is safe and sound while you’re away, so be sure to check on it periodically throughout the winter season. With the right winterizing measures in place, you can ensure that your vacation home or cabin is always ready for a winter getaway.

Mario Kart 8 Racing Cabinet (Old Cabinet Conversion to Nintendo Switch)

mario kart 8 racing cabinet

This is a project I had been looking into for a few months. New sit-down racing arcade cabinets such as Mario Kart DX can be quite pricey, coming in around $13K USD for a single cabinet. You’re also typically limited to just one game. I wanted to setup a 2 player racing arcade cabinet at our cabin for the game loft, and started exploring various options. We had temporarily setup an OpenWheeler racing wheel cockpit, but it just didn’t seem to delivery the experience I was looking for. I then started looking at building my own cabinet or possibly converting an old cabinet. In case you hadn’t figured it out, I opted to convert an old cabinet. Sega Rally Arcade Cabinets For this project, I started with an old Sega Rally racing game which was made in 1995. I found it for sale on my local Craigslist for $600. Being over 25 years old, it had certainly seen better days, but felt it would give me a solid starting point. Other Cabinet Considerations Ridge Racer and Rush 2049 have some intriguing design qualities to their cabinets. I was trying to find a pair of these, but did not have any luck. I looked into buying another pair of cabinets out of state, but with shipping wasn’t cheap. One seller advised I go through uShip.com, I was receiving quotes for over $2600. That wasn’t going to happen. I’ve seen pinball machines shipped last year across country for around $500. Even with 2 cabinets, the prices I was receiving seemed extremely high so I continued to see if I could find anything locally. Shipping these doesn’t seem like the most budget-friendly approach. I would certainly recommended trying to find something local. In all honestly, I think you typically need to be flexible, these games aren’t readily available. The Original Sega Rally Racing Cabinets I ended up picking these up just under an hour away from our house. The seller was able to confirm dimensions for me and I quickly realized I wasn’t going to fit two of these in the SylvanSport trailer. My neighbor was actually borrowing our 6’x12′ enclosed cargo trailer and so I was without it for about a week. Fortunately, the seller was willing to hold them for me. To Keep Original or Modernize I’m sure this build will not sit well with some who may feel cabinets such as these should be restored to their original condition. Others may be against a Nintendo system in a Sega cabinet. This cabinet had multiple issues. The screen for player 1 had a distorted image and the accelerator did not work. The previous owner thought it could be a ROM or board issue for the screen and a potentiometer with the pedal. Cabinet 2 had audio issues. Both screens had significant “burn in”. The kids got a chance to play them, but seemed to agree they would prefer to have the option of playing multiple, modern games. The decision was then made to do a full conversion. Sega Rally Billboard / Topper The Race Leader section of plexi did have a crack, this might help convince me to have custom graphics printed sooner than later. If I do go with new graphics, I’ll think of something else to use than “Race Leader” since it won’t be functional. With the original Sega Rally game, it did show which player was leading, so this is functionality I will lose in my Nintendo Switch conversion. Gutting and Cleaning After getting the cabinets home, I unloaded them into the shop. I connected everything and powered them to see the original functionality. It was also quite dirty. Steering Wheels The original wheel is quite a bit heavier and robust then PC-based racing wheels. Unfortunately, from what I’ve ready, they are extremely difficult to try and get re-wired, especially if being using for multiple games. A lot of times controls need to be remapped for each individual game. To keep things simple and easy, I went the plug-and-play route. I purchased a pair of the Hori Racing Wheel Mario Kart Pro Deluxe. These racing wheels are USB and simply plug into the Nintendo Switch docking station. Unfortunately, they do not include haptic feedback. Transporting (again) and Setting Up in the Cabin Loft I’m not sure the total of weight of these cabinets, but they’re certainly not light. After getting them hauled over to our cabin, I decided to remove the seat, and unbolt the main cabinet from the base. These made it much more doable for getting up to the loft with the help of my brother-in-law and nephew. Modernizing and Simplifying This was a big factor in the decision to update to a newer system. Trying to troubleshoot and get 25 year old hardware working again for an older, single game didn’t seem like the approach I wanted to take. Here’s a look at the under seat hardware: Gameplay – 2 Player Action Without the Split Screen Going back even to the original Mario Kart on the Super Nintendo I found it annoying having a split screen for two players. Back then, I don’t believe it was possible to setup two separate screens. Today, however, WiFi makes it a lot easier! While you do have the option of using the Online Play mode, we’ve been using the Wireless Play. In this mode, one player will create a lobby, then others can join. I’ll add some images for this later. Having to go in and setup the Wireless Play is a few more steps than just sitting down to a Mario Kart DX (or other racing game) and inserting some tokens, but I feel the tradeoff going to modern technology was well worth it. We’ve had extended family who have thoroughly enjoyed it, even though things were only temporarily setup. Requirements With this type of configuration, you do need to have a Nintendo Switch and game for each setup. For two cabinets, you need two Nintendo

Custom Wood Door Insert

custom wood door insert

This post will be updated with additional information, but for now, here are some photos of a custom wood insert I created for a wooden door that had a broken glass insert. Rather than get a new (or used) door, I figured I’d add a wood insert from some old 2×6’s I had laying around.

NewAge Products Pro 3.0 Series Storage Cabinet 10-piece Set (Review and Installation)

newage pro series storage cabinet

NewAge Products manufactures various items from outdoor kitchen sets to garage storage solutions. In this article, I’ll cover their Pro 3.0 Series 10-Piece Storage Cabinet. From deliver to installation. Damage Upon Arrival Things definitely didn’t start out well. Unfortunately, multiple cabinets had sustained some damage. I promptly contacted NewAge, and they did send replacement doors and some touchup paint. The outer boxes didn’t appear to be too concerning, but once I got things opened up their were certainly some concerns. Cabinet Damage This was the most concerning damage, one of the “locker cabinets” had a large scratch and was dented. An overhead cabinet door had badly bent aluminum trim, but I was able to easily bend this back into position. Several Scuffed Pieces There was quite a bit of scuff marks inside the cabinets, one worse than the others. Styrofoam packaging was broken on this one and the inner contents were fairly loose inside because of it. For the most part, the scuff marks were able to be wiped off. It didn’t look like anything to worry about, but there was visible damage once opened in various areas. I thought this was an odd choice for shipping the lighting that is used for under the overhead storage shelves. At least they made it in one piece. They were fully shrinked wrap (which I removed before this photo) after being taped to the boxes. Assembly and Install The main cabinets are extremely heavy. It will definitely help to have at least 2 adults to moves these into position. Installing NewAge Storage Cabinets in a Pole Building Since I was installing my cabinets in my shop that’s a pole building, there aren’t many vertical support beams. The builders installed a 2×6 about halfway up the wall which provides additional support. It also established how far back I could install the walls. For mounting surface of the overhead cabinets, I installed a 4×6 beam (see photo below). Once installation location was determined, I placed the first cabinet. From there, I began installing the first overhead cabinet. This can be done with one person if you have something to support the cabinet (see 2×4’s below). However, a second set of hands would make things go eaiser. Continuing along installing the remaining overhead cabinets and using a step platform (and cabinets) for temporary support while installing. Installing the Benchtop Surface Installing the Lighting The included lighting uses adhesive magnets to install below the overhead cabinets. The light is quite warm, I prefer a cool white for lighting and have since replaced this lighting. Pegboard Installation NewAge does offer a pegboard that fits into the opening below the overhead storage and above the benchtop surface. However, I prefer the the steel pegboards from Wall Control. Overall Perception Other than the damage, a very solid product. A few packaging improvements, possibly QA before boxing, and also additional care by the courier will substantially improve the customer experience. It’s very frustrating to receive a product with this amount of damage.

How to Install a Bi-Fold Door

how to install a bi-fold door

In this post we’ll go through the steps to install a bi-fold door. The installation time took me around 20 minutes. Everything is fairly straight forward, however this is the first bi-fold door I’ve ever installed and it did have to figure out a couple things along the way. I’ll provide some of these lessons learned that weren’t included in the instructions. Particularly with the pivots and hinges. This particular door is by Frameport, and unlike some other designs, this one has several size options, 13 to be exact. I opted for the 6-Panel style. However, louvered designs as well as others are also available. Follow along as we go through the installation process. Required Tools for Installing a Bi-Fold Door The tools for installation were fairly basic and minimal, here’s what I used: Unboxing the Bi-Fold Door After a string of wet or damaged deliveries of larger items recently, I was pleasantly surprised to find this door was delivered free of damage. Bi-Fold Door Hardware Here’s the included hardware: The hardware packs are attached quite secure to the doors, just pull up on the plastic near the arrow to remove. Step 1 Mark Position of Track The instructions that came with the door mention marking the center of your top jamb on each side of the opening and center point. I had mine offset, as I didn’t want the doors recessed that far into the jamb. So, for my particular install, the track was only about an inch from the outer walkway. Step 2 Insert Plastic Guide For the second step, you’ll insert the plastic guide into the track. Note, this guide will be positioned on the side of the doorway that is NOT hinged. As stated in the instructions, make sure the scooped surface of the guide is facing up towards the solid, flat side of the track before mounting. Step 3 Mount the Track Using the previous marked lines in Step 1, you’ll now mount the track using the three flat-top screws. Note: You’ll use position the upper hinge slide bracket (the one with the black set screw) to the side you plan to have the outside of the door hinge. The plastic glide is for the non-hinged door edge. Step 4 Mounting the Bottom Bracket Next step is to install the bottom bracket. I had tile in this area, but if you have carpet you may need to push the bracket down into the carpet so it doesn’t sit too high. I also opted not to drill into the tile to get a screw at the end. The two screws into the door jamb seem to be enough so far. Step 5 Knurled Hinge Pin For this step, you need to thread the knurled hinge pivot all the way into the plastic sleeve. Once you’ve done that, you’ll tap it into place with a mallet (or hammer). The directions called for hammer, I opted to use a mallet. Note: Be sure to thread the knurled pivot all the way in, otherwise when you go to hammer it into the door the plastic sleeve could become damaged. After installing the knurled hinge pivot, the instructions mention back the metal pin out from the sleeve approximately 1/4″. My door opening must be a bit tighter (possibly from the tile). I ended up having keep mine fully threaded. Your results may vary. Then, insert the top two plastic pivots and lightly tap them into position to fully seat. Step 6 Install the Door You’ll now push upright to align and insert upper the plastic pivots into the sliding hinge guide and track guide in the top track. More than likely you’ll have to angle the door to get them into position, then seat the bottom knurled pivot into the serrated slot of the bottom bracket. Step 7 Square Up the Door Now, it’s time square up the door and make final adjustments. Be sure to loosen the set screw on the upper sliding hinge bracket and move it to the necessary position within the track. Once in position, re-tighten the set screw. Test opening and closing the doors to make sure everything operates smoothly. The doors should have equal spacing on all sides. Step 8 Adjust for Height If you need to adjust the height of your bi-fold doors, lift the door from the floor bracket. You’ll rotate the bottom pivot clockwise to raise, or counter-clockwise to lower it. Step 9 Install the Pull Handle For this step, you need to drill a 3/16″ hole in the center of the guide door. Use the long screw from the backside to attach the knob. Finishing Options The instructions do show a few finishing options to hide the metal upper track. I’ll likely add a piece of cedar wood later, but for now, it’s functional. Staining the Bi-Fold Doors I don’t plan to stain our door, but that could change. The majority of the walls in our cabin are a knotty pine that have darkened over the years from UV exposure from the sun. If anyone is considering this same brand of door, there are specific instructions that come with it regarding painting or staining. Notably, the top and bottom edge surfaces are factory-sealed with two coats of UV cured protection. This means they’ll likely needed to sanded if you plan to paint them. They also will not absorb stain. So, if you plan on painting or staining, just be sure to read the instruction that come with your door. Summary All in all quite pleased with this bi-fold door. The lines don’t match up with the trim along the wall, so I’ll see if that bothers me over time. Definitely going to have to wait for the door to darken from UV exposure, as it certainly stands out right now. Otherwise, I may have to consider staining it, possibly a similar color as our exterior doors. The installation was fairly straight forward and easy, so big plus there! It