Wood Projects

How to Fix Tacky Minwax Stain (and Others)

Wood Projects /

I recently had a wood staining project that didn’t go to plan. I was rushing to stain some oak barrel staves for a railing project one evening to have the wood ready to install by the weekend. After about 3 days the stain was still tacky, and wasn’t in a condition where I wanted to try transporting it, let alone install it. Fixing Tacky Stain I was able to find a couple possible fixes on the Minwax website. The first was to use mineral spirits. This was the option I chose to go with. Their site mentions that you can dampen a cloth with mineral spirits to wipe off the excess stain. Depending on how much excess stain in on your wood, it may require some heavier scrubbing, but this method worked well in my project. Second option Minwax suggests is to apply another coat of stain, wait a couple minutes for it to soften the previous coat of stain, then take a cloth to wipe away the excess. How Long Should Minwax Stain Take to Dry? It should take 2 hours for Minwax stain to dry. At least that’s what it says on the label for the particular stain I bought. Why Is My Wood Stain Still Tacky? Humidity, temperature, and excess stain are the primary factors of stain not properly drying. Troubleshooting Tacky Stains: A Guide to Fixing Over-Applied Minwax Stain Minwax stains are popular choices for enhancing the natural beauty of wood surfaces, but sometimes, even the most experienced DIY enthusiasts find themselves in a sticky situation. If you’ve applied too much Minwax stain and your project is still tacky after several days, don’t panic. In this guide, we’ll walk you through the steps to troubleshoot and remedy the situation. Upcoming project reveal: Upcycling Oak Barrel Staves for Railing Conclusion to Fixing Tacking Stain Things don’t always go according to plan, and that’s no different for applying wood stain. Correcting a tacky Minwax stain can still be fixed. By addressing the issue promptly and following these steps, you can salvage your project and achieve the beautiful, durable finish you desire. Hopefully this article gets your project back on track if you’ve ran into a similar situation.

DIY Overhead Storage Door with Block and Tackle Pulley

The Cabin, Wood Projects /
diy overhead storage door with block and tackle pulley for opening

There’s something about a cabin in the woods that brings a sense of tranquility and nostalgia. But when it comes to practicality, sometimes a little DIY magic is needed to make your cabin space more functional and visually appealing. In this blog post, we’ll take you through an inspiring woodworking project to enclose an overhead storage area with a custom built diy overhead storage door using repurposed wood and a block and tackle pulley system. The Challenge The previous owner who built our cabin had a fairly small shed with an overhead storage area. Unfortunately, this storage area was completely open and I wanted to come up with a solution to close it. We used this space to store some blow mold Christmas decorations, but it certainly looked a bit tacky. From the street, the decorations could be seen as well. It was time to transform this neglected space into something more practical and aesthetically pleasing. The Materials I had some damaged tongue and groove slats from a closet I removed to make room in the game loft for our racing arcade cabinets. Previously, I had already cut these slats down to remove the damaged area. With these slats laying around for a few months now, it seemed like the perfect usage to make the overhead door with these. Repurposed Wood Here’s the closet I removed… The tongue and groove is quite thin, as far as I know it’s nearly, if not completely impossible to remove without damaging it. Lots of cutting down, running the slats through the table saw. Staining the Overhead Door I need to pick up some more stain, but I’ll use the same stain I used for the main door of the shed. It does have a decent amount of weight to it, so I’m not sure if I’ll take the door back down to stain or leave it in place. Stay tuned for that… Conclusion What started as an open and unsightly overhead storage area in the cabin’s shed was transformed into a functional and visually appealing space. This woodworking project showcased the power of repurposing materials and creative problem-solving. The use of a block and tackle pulley system added a touch of nostalgia, harking back to simpler times. If you’re looking to enhance your cabin space and have some repurposed wood lying around, consider taking on a project like this one. Not only will it breathe new life into a neglected area, but it will also infuse your cabin with rustic charm and character. Happy woodworking, and may your cabin always be a haven of peace and creativity!

Simple Oak Barrel Stave Key Holder Rack

Projects, Wood Projects /

Oak barrels are widely known for their use in the production of wine and whiskey. These barrels are made from high-quality oak wood, which makes them a popular choice for upcycling projects. One such project is turning an oak barrel stave into a rustic key holder rack. In this article, we will guide you through the steps involved in upcycling an oak barrel stave and attaching hooks to create a rustic key holder rack. Step 1: Acquire an Oak Barrel Stave The first step in this project is to acquire an oak barrel stave. You can purchase these staves from online retailers, home decor stores, or even your local distillery. If you’re lucky, you might find one at a flea market or garage sale. Make sure that the stave is in good condition and free from any cracks or splits. I ended up buying a batch of staves off of eBay for my projects. Step 2: Clean and Sand the Stave Once you have the oak barrel stave, the next step is to clean and sand it. Use a soft-bristled brush to remove any dirt or debris from the stave. Then, use sandpaper to sand the stave. Start with a coarse grit sandpaper to remove any rough spots or imperfections on the surface of the stave. Then, move on to a finer grit sandpaper to smooth out the surface of the stave. You can sand it by hand or use a power sander. I used by DeWalt Cordless Orbital Sander. Step 3: Measure and Mark the Stave The next step is to measure and mark the stave where you want to attach the hooks. Use a ruler to measure the length of the stave and mark the center point. I ordered this 58 Piece Black Small Key Hook set off Amazon for mine. Then, measure and mark the distance from the center point to each end of the stave. This will help you determine where to place the hooks evenly. Step 4: Finish the Stave The final step is to finish the stave. You can use a clear coat or stain to enhance the natural beauty of the oak wood. Apply the finish to the stave using a brush or rag, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Allow the finish to dry completely before hanging the key holder rack. Step 5: Attach the Hooks Now it’s time to attach the hooks to the stave. You can purchase hooks from any hardware store or online retailer. Make sure that the hooks are the appropriate size for the stave. Place the hooks on the stave at the marked points and use a pencil to mark where you want to drill the holes for the screws. Once you have marked the spots for the holes, use a drill to make the holes in the stave. Then, attach the hooks to the stave using screws. Make sure that the hooks are securely attached to the stave and that they are evenly spaced. Step 6: Hang the Key Holder Rack To hang the key holder rack, you can use picture hangers or keyhole hangers. I simply drilled screws into the stave. Screws could be countersunk and wood plugs used if desired. If you are using picture hangers, attach them to the back of the stave using screws. If you are using keyhole hangers, use a router or a chisel to make the keyholes in the back of the stave. Then, insert the hangers into the keyholes. Conclusion In conclusion, upcycling an oak barrel stave into a rustic key holder rack is a fun and easy project that can add a touch of rustic charm to any home decor. With just a few simple steps, you can turn an old oak barrel stave into a beautiful and functional key holder rack. So, go ahead and give it a try!

What Tools do you Need for Woodworking?

Wood Projects /

Woodworking is a rewarding and fulfilling hobby that allows you to create beautiful and functional objects out of wood. However, to do woodworking properly, you need to have the right tools. The right tools will make your work easier, safer, and more accurate, which will allow you to produce better results. In this article, we will discuss the essential tools you should have for woodworking. A circular saw is a versatile power tool that is essential for woodworking. It is used to make straight cuts in wood and is great for cutting large sheets of plywood. It is also useful for cross-cutting and ripping boards. A circular saw is portable, easy to use, and relatively inexpensive compared to other power tools. When buying a circular saw, look for one with a good blade guard and a sturdy base plate. A table saw is a stationary power tool that is used for making precise cuts in wood. It is the most versatile and accurate cutting tool for woodworking. A table saw is used for ripping boards, cross-cutting, and making angled cuts. It can also be used to cut joinery, such as dados and tenons. When buying a table saw, look for one with a stable base, a good fence, and a powerful motor. A miter saw is a power tool that is used to make accurate crosscuts and angled cuts in wood. It is commonly used for cutting moldings, trim work, and framing lumber. A miter saw is a stationary tool that has a rotating blade that can be angled to make precise cuts. When buying a miter saw, look for one with a good dust collection system and a reliable blade. A jigsaw is a handheld power tool that is used for cutting curves and intricate shapes in wood. It is also used for making plunge cuts and cutting out shapes in plywood. A jigsaw is versatile and relatively inexpensive compared to other power tools. When buying a jigsaw, look for one with variable speed control and a good blade. A router is a power tool that is used for cutting grooves, chamfers, and decorative profiles in wood. It is also used for cutting joinery, such as dovetails and mortises. A router is a versatile tool that can be used for a variety of tasks, including edge profiling and trimming. When buying a router, look for one with a good depth adjustment and a variety of bits. A random orbital sander is a handheld power tool that is used for sanding wood. It is a versatile tool that can be used for sanding flat and curved surfaces, as well as removing paint and stains. A random orbital sander is easy to use and produces a smooth finish. When buying a random orbital sander, look for one with a good dust collection system and a variety of sanding discs. A drill is a handheld power tool that is used for drilling holes in wood. It is also used for driving screws and bolts. A drill is an essential tool for woodworking, as it is used for a variety of tasks, including assembly, installation, and repair. When buying a drill, look for one with a good chuck and variable speed control. Chisels are handheld cutting tools that are used for removing wood and creating joinery. They are commonly used for cutting mortises and tenons, as well as shaping wood. Chisels come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and they can be used for a variety of tasks. When buying chisels, look for ones with high-quality steel and comfortable handles. Hand planes are handheld tools that are used for shaping and smoothing wood. They are commonly used for flattening and smoothing large surfaces, such as tabletops and door panels. Hand planes come in a variety of sizes and shapes, each designed for a specific task. When buying hand planes, look for ones with high-quality blades and comfortable handles. Clamps are essential tools for woodworking. They are used to hold pieces of wood together while glue dries or when assembling a project. Clamps come in a variety of sizes and styles, including C-clamps, bar clamps, and pipe clamps. When buying clamps, look for ones with strong clamping pressure and a variety of sizes. A tape measure is an essential tool for woodworking. It is used for measuring and marking wood, as well as measuring for cuts and joints. When buying a tape measure, look for one with a durable case and a locking mechanism. A combination square is a versatile tool that is used for measuring and marking angles and straight lines. It is also used for checking the squareness of joints and edges. When buying a combination square, look for one with a sturdy blade and an adjustable head. Safety gear is essential for woodworking. It includes eye protection, ear protection, and a dust mask. Eye protection is essential for protecting your eyes from flying debris and sawdust. Ear protection is necessary to protect your ears from loud noise produced by power tools. A dust mask is essential for protecting your lungs from sawdust and other airborne particles. A workbench is an essential tool for woodworking. It provides a stable surface for cutting, sanding, and assembling projects. A workbench can be purchased or built, depending on your budget and skill level. Sawhorses are essential for supporting large pieces of wood while cutting or sanding. They can be purchased or built, and they provide a stable surface for working with large pieces of wood. In conclusion, having the right tools is essential for woodworking. The tools listed above are essential for any woodworker, whether you are a beginner or an experienced woodworker. When buying tools, look for ones that are of high quality and that will last a long time. Invest in tools that will make your work easier, safer, and more accurate. With the right tools, you can create beautiful and functional objects out of wood.

Log Carvings from the 2021 Sedro Woolley, WA Loggerrodeo

Wood Projects /
log carvings 2021 loggerrodeo

After being canceled in 2020 because of the pandemic, the Sedro Woolley Loggerrodeo returned in 2021. Here are photos from some of the chainsaw artists this year. It seemed there were less participants, but it certainly wasn’t lacking in quality. Some absolutely amazing pieces.

How to Build a Hidden Door Pool Cue Rack

Projects, The Cabin, Wood Projects /

This is another in-progress project I’m working on for the cabin. With the scrap wood left over from the Murphy bed cabinet I had enough to build a door. There’s a few kits available on the market for hidden doors, and specifically hidden doors with pool cue racks, but one’s I came across started out at $1200 USD and were made of particle board. With no particle board currently in the cabin, I didn’t want to start adding any. I’m still a novice with furniture woodworking, so I called upon my brother-in-law to give me a hand over at his shop. Some of our rough sketch work to figure out what we were trying to build. Definitely don’t try to follow our chicken-scratch. Planning out for your own build certainly advised though, measure twice, cut once. Building the Main Box of the Hidden Door Some photos as we built the initial box structure of the door, I’ll add more descriptions later. Several clamps keep everything in place for the glue to dry. In this photo, you see multiple sections for the back panel. I may have been able to get one single piece from the Murphy bed scrap wood cut differently, oh well. This ended up with 3 pieces. The upper shelf was positioned to hide the gap at the top. We also placed a trim piece to hide the lower section. Shelves for the Hidden Door Pool Cue Rack Originally we intended to have the barrel staves go flush to the edge of the door, however, re-thought our decision on this. The overall intent is to make the door as inconspicuous as possible and will have some fixed out trim. Based on this, the edge of the door will be hidden when closed. After spending a good amount of time figuring out how to notch the staves to fit flush, the idea was scratched. This image also shows a couple pool cues we used to determine rough placement of the shelves. I didn’t snap a photo, but we had shelves cut to width and traced the contour once the staves were cut to size. A fairly quick cut on the bandsaw, one last dry fit, and the shelves were ready to be drilled. Drilling the Shelves Forstner bits were used to drill the holes for the shelves. The lower shelf was drilled to a depth of 3/8″ an inch using the depth gauge on the drill press. The upper shelf was drilled all the way through. Routing the Edges A router was used to give a softer edge to the holes, a bit of a chamfered edge. Barrel Stave Biscuit Joints Here’s an image of a biscuit joint. Glue should be strong enough to hold the barrel staves in place, but I will also have screws from the door sides also holding them into place. The screws will be countersunk and plugged. Here’s the “lower shelf” where the pool cues will rest. Using a Forstner bit always lives a detent in the middle, but I plan to glue in some felt pieces later. Dry Fit Before Final Assembly of the Shelves A quick dry fit before the shelves were screwed into place (from the side and back). The barrel staves will be stained and final assembly later. Primary Structure Complete Here’s the end of our second day of work. The door was now ready to haul over to the cabin. I brought it back over to my house in our enclosed trailer. The door, along with the Murphy bed cabinet plywood will be hauled over to the cabin soon. I’m planning to use five standard door hinges. If they don’t work, I’ll look at other hinge options. At the Cabin and Hinged I was surprised, but I was actually able to fit the hidden door, all but two pieces of the Murphy bed cabinet, laminate flooring, and a handful of other items into our Tesla Model X. Didn’t have to wait on my dad or neighbor to help haul it over in their truck after all. Here’s the initial install: Hinges for the Pool Cue Hidden Door Rack There are some “specialty” hinges for hidden doors. Some of the ones I saw didn’t seem they would give the right pivot point I was looking for. I ended up installing a total of 5 standard door hinges. The package stated 2 hinges were rated for up to 100 pounds, 3 hinges could handle 150 pounds. I’m sure this door is quite a bit lighter than 150 pounds, but figured I’d go with 5 hinges just to help prevent any sagging. Re-Trimming the Doorway I pulled the cedar trim and had to cut and/or re-position several pieces. I also cut down a wider piece for the top trim that would keep the original trim location at the top, but also was now tall enough to cover the top of the door. Notice the light color of the knotty pine where the trim used to be. The previous owner had several pictures and other items on the wall. Where these were located showed varying color depending on how long they were there for. He had mentioned give it a couple years and it will darken. Wood Plugs My brother-in-law made some wood plugs from some scrap wood from the same plywood. They have a slight taper and with a bit of wood glue, will permanently hide counter-sunk screws. I used a Japanese flush cut trim handsaw for this. As the name implies, it gives a nice, flush cut. More on this tool later. What’s Next? I still have some sanding and staining on the door itself to finish up. Most of this work likely won’t happen until the spring when the weather starts to warm up. I’ll also work on a compartment for the bottom to store additional pool table items like the brush and extra chalk. The door is also going to require some shimming, I have some gaps on

How to Build a Barrel Stave Pool Cue Rack

Projects, The Cabin, Wood Projects /

This is another in-progress project that I have underway. This post will be updated as I continue the project. Here’s a dry fit of what I’m building: A temporary screw to hold the triangle that will most likely be replaced with a wood dowel setup. Also using the bottom mount of a pool cue rack for the ping pong balls. Drilling the Ping Pong Paddle Holes After measuring the placement for the ping pong paddles, it was time to use a Forstner bit in the drill press. The largest Forstner bit I had was 1-3/8″, this hole was just large enough for the paddles we have, but probably would have otherwise gone up to at 1-1/2″ for some extra clearance. Initial Assembly Applying a Stain Here’s an initial coat of stain. I used a “dark walnut” varathane. More to Come I still need to add a “shelf” for pool cue chalk and conceal the screws. That’s all for now though!

How to Build and Install a Murphy Bed Kit

Projects, The Cabin, Wood Projects /

I recently purchased a Rockler I-Semble Murphy bed kit. This kit comes with all of the hardware needed to build a Murphy wall bed, minus the wood to build the cabinet. It also comes with dimensions for the plywood cuts to build the cabinet. I took advantage of using the cutting service at our local home improvement store rather than leaving with full sheets of plywood to have to cut myself. The associate let me know the upper headboard is below the minimum cut size. More than likely, I could have had it cut off first. Instead, I left with just one piece that still needed to be cut. With the left over “scrap” plywood, I had enough to build a hidden door. More to come on this build as well. Rockler I-Semble Murphy Bed Kits The I-Semble Murphy Bed Hardware Kits are available for vertical and horizontal configuration. They offer kits for twin, full, and queen size beds. Based on the room I’ll be installing our Murphy bed in, vertical was the only option for us. We also opted for the queen size. The Hardware Here’s everything that comes with the kit (minus the packs of bolts, nuts, and screws). Again, you have to purchase your own plywood for the cabinet. It also does not include #8 x 2″ screws, dowels, or wood glue. Also not listed in the instructions was an 8mm Allen wrench, more on that later. Tools Required (Not Included) Per the instructions (the copy I received was last revised December 2018), these are the required tools that are not included: Drill Saw Circular Saw or Table Saw Stud Finder Tape Measure Pencil 3/8″ Nut Driver or Socket Wrench I lightly used an impact driver for the bed frame Phillips Screwdriver Doweling Jig Drill Bits 13/64″, 5/16″, 3/16″, 5/32″, 3/8″, and 27/64″ #8 Countersink Bit 8mm Allen Wrench This was not listed in the instructions Quality Control Issue When I picked up the Long Center Frame Support, I could hear something rattling inside. I certainly didn’t want to have this sound occur every time the bed was raised or lowered, so I tried getting whatever it was out. I assumed it was either a piece of welding wiring or a piece of metal that was punched out. With a flashlight looking inside of one of the holes, it appeared to be a round piece of metal. It also sounded as though there were multiple. I tried getting it out through the center hole, but it wasn’t going to be easy. Next, I double-checked the instructions to confirm the center hole on the end bracket wasn’t used for anything, which it wasn’t. I then drilled a larger hole into the bracket to make getting these pieces out much easier. After widening the hole, these pieces came out fairly easily. I assume a stamping machine was used to punch the holes out on this piece and it wasn’t fully cleared when the end brackets were welded on. With that out of the way, it was time to start assembling the bed frame. Murphy Bed Frame Assembly Following the I-Semble instructions, everything is fairly straight forward. There are several bolts, nuts, and washers however, so it can be a bit time consuming. I laid out all the parts and began assembly. To speed things up, I did use an impact driver, but made sure not to apply any torque and used a socket and ratchet to get everything “hand tight”. Here’s the frame fully assembled: Slat Assembly I missed this at first, but there are actually two different slat caps. The double slat caps are intended to be used on the middle. I used them on the outside as well and ended up having to use a flat screwdriver to pry them back up and re-do the slats I had already completed. Per the instructions, you want to leave Row 8 and Row 20 open. This is to allow room to later install other pieces. Also, on queen size beds you’ll leave Row 11 open as well. I missed the queen size call out and had to remove Row 11. My inspectors calling out that I should not have installed Row 11 yet: Tip: I found it easiest to install the left and right slat caps, then push the middle cap into place. The instructions do you mention you may need to use a mallet, but I didn’t find this necessary. Your results may very. Cabinet Build The instructions call for the cabinet build to be done first, but I knew it was going to be a while before I was going to pick up the plywood. So, I assembled the bed frame first. For the queen size Murphy bed, you’ll need 5 sheets of 4’x8′ plywood. Wood prices have skyrocketed in the last year or two, but have started coming down a bit. I spent $71.58 USD for each sheet in November 2021. I went with a finished maple plywood, it has a veneer on one side. The veneer side will be used for the inner portion of my cabinet and I will either stain or add slats to the exterior. My goal is to get it assembled, then I’ll focus on some aesthetics later. Plywood Cuts This is as far as my build has gone. I have the sheets cut, but need to haul them over to our cabin and then begin assembly. The instructions do not include a cut diagram, so I mapped out what I thought would be the best cut layout for our queen size bed. Feel free to use these for your own reference, but I’m not liable. Be sure to verify your required measurements. Again, this is for the queen size Murphy bed. And here’s the cut layout I went with, once again, for a queen size bed: Assembling the Cabinet Here we go, cabinet time! At first I thought I’d have to bring most of the plywood for the cabinet