Automotive

One of the first modifications many M1101 owners make is replacing the massive military wheels with something that matches their tow vehicle. The factory 8-lug wheels and 37-inch Goodyear MT tires are incredibly durable, but they’re also: Converting to a 6×5.5 bolt pattern opens the door to thousands of wheel and tire options while allowing many owners to share a spare tire with their truck or SUV. Here’s everything you need to know before making the swap. Why Convert to 6×5.5? The 6×5.5 (6×139.7mm) bolt pattern is one of the most common light truck patterns in North America. Vehicles that commonly use it include: This opens the door to many aftermarket off-road wheels as well as OEM. Matching your trailer to your tow vehicle means: Factory M1101 Wheel Specs From the factory, the M1101 includes: The complete wheel and tire assembly weighs well over 150 pounds, making roadside tire changes a chore. The Simplest Conversion Fortunately, the axle itself does not need to be replaced. Instead, most owners simply replace the brake drums/hubs with units drilled for a 6×5.5 bolt pattern while keeping the factory axle and surge brake system. A commonly used replacement is the Dexter K08-201-97 hub and drum assembly, designed for 5,200-pound trailer axles with a 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern. It includes bearings, seals, a grease cap, and lug nuts, making it one of the easiest bolt-on conversion options. Parts You’ll Need Most conversions require, these will typically come as a kit: If your brakes need attention, this is an excellent opportunity to replace: Basic Installation The conversion is surprisingly straightforward. Because you’re working with bearings and brakes, take your time and follow the manufacturer’s torque and bearing preload procedures. Choosing Wheels One advantage of converting to 6×5.5 is the huge variety of wheels available. Popular sizes include: Common tire sizes include: The right combination depends on your intended use and tow vehicle. What About Offset? Wheel offset matters. Too much positive offset can reduce clearance to the suspension. Too much negative offset increases bearing loads and widens the trailer. Whenever possible, test-fit one wheel before purchasing an entire set. I took several measurements against the OEM wheel and then measured the wheels from my tow vehicle. The Hub-Centric Challenge This is where many conversions become more complicated. Most trailer hubs are lug-centric, meaning the wheel is centered by the lug nuts. Many OEM truck wheels—including Tesla wheels—are hub-centric, meaning they’re centered by the hub bore. While a standard 6×5.5 trailer hub gets you the correct bolt pattern, the hub pilot may not fit your wheels. Unfortunately, this is a dimension that seems to be lacking from several manufacturers. Should You Keep the Military Tires? If your original tires are still in good condition, selling them can help offset much of the conversion cost. Military wheels with run-flat inserts are still desirable for: Is It Worth It? For most civilian owners, absolutely. The conversion offers several benefits: Unless you’re building a historically accurate military restoration, converting to 6×5.5 is one of the best upgrades you can make. Frequently Asked Questions Can I keep the factory surge brakes? Yes. The hub conversion does not require changing the hydraulic surge brake system. Do I need a new axle? No. The factory axle can typically be retained when using compatible 5,200-pound hub and drum assemblies. Can I use Toyota wheels? Yes. Many Toyota wheels use the 6×5.5 bolt pattern. Just verify offset, center bore, and brake clearance before installation. Can I convert my M1101 to electric brakes? Yes, more to come on this later. Can I use Cybertruck wheels? Not directly. Although a 6×5.5 conversion solves the bolt pattern issue, Cybertruck wheels require an 84.1 mm hub-centric pilot, it seems most pilot hubs are too large and you will likely need adapters. More to come on this. Final Thoughts Converting an M1101 to a 6×5.5 bolt pattern dramatically increases your wheel and tire options while making the trailer far more practical for everyday use. Whether your goal is matching your tow vehicle, reducing weight, or improving serviceability, the conversion is one of the highest-value upgrades available. Just remember that bolt pattern is only one part of the equation. Before buying wheels, verify offset, backspacing, brake clearance, and hub bore to ensure everything fits correctly the first time. More of Our M1101 Content M1101 Paint Refresh ChatGPT Designed, 3d Printed M1101 Replacement Marker Light Housings M1101/2 12 Volt Conversion Purchasing an M1101 Trailer

If you’re considering buying an M1101 military trailer or already own one, one of the first questions you’ll have is: “What are the specifications?” Unfortunately, there are dozens of websites repeating incomplete or even incorrect information. After researching military documentation and spending time working on my own M1101, I wanted to put together a single reference that covers nearly everything someone would want to know. Whether you’re building an overland trailer, converting one for camping, or simply restoring one to military condition, these are the specifications you’ll find yourself referencing over and over. M1101 Specifications at a Glance Specification Value Empty Weight (Curb Weight) 1,460 lbs (662 kg) Maximum GVWR 3,400 lbs Maximum Payload 1,940 lbs Overall Length 132 in (11 ft) Overall Width 85.6 in Overall Height 52.5 in Overall Height with Soft Top 99.5 in Track Width 72.5 in Deck Height 34.5 in Ground Clearance 16 in Suspension Torsion axle Spring Type Progressive torselastic rubber Brakes Hydraulic surge brakes Parking Brake Mechanical Electrical System 24-volt military Tires 37×12.50R16.5 Goodyear MT Wheels 16.5-inch HMMWV military wheels Bolt Pattern 8×6.5 (8×165.1 mm) Construction Aluminum tub with steel frame components These figures are consistent with the military technical data for the M1101 cargo trailer. Overall Dimensions One of the biggest surprises for many new owners is how large the M1101 actually is. It was designed to track directly behind a HMMWV, making it significantly wider than many civilian off-road trailers. Exterior Dimensions Because of its width, the trailer is extremely stable at highway speeds and on uneven terrain. Interior Cargo Bed Dimensions While military manuals emphasize overall dimensions, owners are often more interested in usable cargo space. Typical interior measurements are approximately: These dimensions make the trailer capable of hauling: Weight Ratings One of the most misunderstood aspects of these trailers is the difference between curb weight, payload, and gross vehicle weight. Empty Weight Approximately: 1,460 pounds This includes: The wheels alone are extremely heavy due to the steel run-flat inserts. Maximum Payload The M1101 is rated for: 1,940 pounds This produces a maximum gross vehicle weight of: 3,400 pounds The heavier-rated M1102 uses the exact same trailer but carries a different identification plate allowing a higher GVWR when paired with heavier-duty HMMWV variants. I cover this in much more detail in my article explaining What’s the Real Difference Between the M1101 and M1102? Suspension One reason these trailers have become so popular for overlanding is their extreme ground clearance thanks to the suspension design. Unlike most trailers that use leaf springs, the M1101 uses a torsion bar suspension. Benefits include: Even after decades of military service, many original suspensions remain in excellent condition. Braking System The factory braking system includes: Unlike electric trailer brakes, the military designed the trailer to function without a brake controller. Many owners keep the surge brakes because they’re simple and highly reliable. Others convert to electric brakes during civilian restorations. Tires and Wheels The M1101 uses the same wheels found on military HMMWVs. Factory equipment includes: One complete wheel and tire assembly is surprisingly heavy due to the run-flat system. Many civilian owners eventually replace the original wheels with aluminum wheels matching their tow vehicle to reduce weight, improve tire availability, and lower the overall ride height of the trailer. Drop down to 33″ tires and you’ve lowered the trailer 2″ closer to the ground. Construction Unlike many military trailers built from steel, the M1101 uses a unitized aluminum cargo tub. Benefits include: Critical suspension and tongue components remain steel for durability. This combination makes the trailer incredibly rugged while resisting rust far better than older military trailers. Electrical System Factory configuration includes: Most civilian owners eventually convert the trailer to: This allows the trailer to plug directly into most pickups and SUVs. Towing Characteristics One reason the M1101 has become so desirable is how well it tows. The wide stance, independent suspension, and low center of gravity help it remain remarkably stable on pavement and rough forest roads. Owners often comment that once properly loaded, it’s easy to forget the trailer is behind the tow vehicle. Common Modifications Popular upgrades include: The M1101 provides an excellent platform because the military engineering is already done—you simply customize it to your needs. Frequently Asked Questions Are the M1101 and M1102 physically different? No. They are built identically. The only difference is the identification plate and the allowable gross vehicle weight based on the military towing vehicle. Is the M1101 aluminum? Yes. The cargo tub is aluminum while the frame, suspension, and tongue components are steel. Does the M1101 have independent suspension? No. The M1101/M1102 utilizes a torsion axle. Does the M1101 use electric brakes? No. From the factory it uses hydraulic surge brakes. Can an M1101 tow behind a pickup? Absolutely. After converting the wiring and installing an appropriate hitch, many owners tow them behind Jeeps, Tacomas, Rangers, F-150s, Silverados, Broncos, and SUVs. Check your tow vehicles specs on it’s tow rating and how much additional weight you might plan on hauling with your M1101. Final Thoughts The M1101 remains one of the most capable military trailers ever offered to the public. Its combination of aluminum construction, rugged suspension, impressive payload, and military engineering makes it an outstanding foundation for everything from overland builds to utility hauling. While it weighs more than many civilian trailers, that extra weight comes from the very features that make it so durable—heavy-duty suspension, surge brakes, robust wheels, and a structure designed to withstand years of military service. With a few thoughtful upgrades like 12-volt lighting, matching wheels, or an adjustable hitch, the M1101 becomes an incredibly versatile trailer that’s just as comfortable on the highway as it is on remote forest roads. If you’re planning a build, understanding these specifications is the first step toward choosing the right modifications and getting the most from one of the best surplus trailers ever produced.

M1101 vs. M1102 Military Trailers: The Difference Is Smaller Than You Think Spend enough time browsing military surplus auctions or Facebook Marketplace and you’ll inevitably see people debating whether an M1101 or an M1102 is the “better” trailer. Some sellers even advertise one as being stronger or built heavier than the other. Here’s the surprise: The M1101 and M1102 are physically the exact same trailer. The only real difference is the identification plate (data placard) attached to the trailer. That placard specifies the allowable Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) based on the military vehicle that was expected to tow it. Here’s what makes them different, a metal data plate that has different ratings based on the TOW VEHICLE, NOT THE ACTUAL TRAILER ITSELF. And yes, I need to figure out how to clean mine before it goes back on the trailer – pressure washing did nothing, apparently I need to buff it. So if you’re converting one into an overland trailer, utility trailer, or expedition camper, you’re starting with the exact same platform regardless of whether the data plate says M1101 or M1102. Why Two Different Model Numbers? The U.S. Army needed a trailer that could be towed behind several versions of the HMMWV (Humvee). Not every Humvee had the same towing capacity. Rather than designing two separate trailers, the Army simply assigned two different model designations that reflected the maximum allowable loaded weight for the intended tow vehicle. M1101 M1102 The trailer itself never changes—the identification plate simply limits how heavily it may be loaded behind specific military vehicles. Same Chassis. Same Suspension. Same Components. Whether your trailer wears an M1101 or M1102 data plate, you’ll find the same major components: This is why nearly every modification—from 12-volt lighting conversions to aftermarket couplers and suspension upgrades—fits both trailers equally well. If you’re shopping surplus auctions, condition is far more important than whether the data plate says M1101 or M1102. So Why Does the Payload Rating Change? The limiting factor wasn’t the trailer. It was the Humvee. Military planners needed to ensure that lighter HMMWV variants weren’t overloaded while towing fully equipped cargo trailers. Instead of manufacturing two different trailers, they simply issued different identification plates showing different allowable Gross Vehicle Weights. This simplified logistics, spare parts, maintenance, and production while ensuring military operators stayed within safe towing limits. Who Built the M1101 and M1102? Another common misconception is that one manufacturer built “better” trailers than another. In reality, several defense contractors produced these trailers during Army procurement contracts. Manufacturers you’ll commonly encounter include: One interesting piece of history is that the original production contract was awarded to Electrospace Systems in 1993. The company subcontracted Silver Eagle Manufacturing in Oregon to actually build the trailers. After Raytheon acquired Electrospace in 1996, many trailers carried Raytheon identification while still being produced through the same manufacturing relationship. Later production contracts also involved other defense manufacturers including BAE Systems and Schutt Industries. Is One Manufacturer Better? Among surplus enthusiasts you’ll often hear claims that certain manufacturers built stronger trailers or that Silver Eagle tubs are somehow different. In practical use, there is little evidence of meaningful differences in durability or capability between manufacturers. All trailers were built to the same military specifications and parts interchange freely across production years. When shopping for one, pay attention to: These factors will matter far more than the name stamped on the data plate. Which One Should You Buy? The answer is simple: Buy whichever trailer is in the best condition. Since both models share the same frame, suspension, body, brakes, wheels, and nearly every serviceable component, there’s no practical advantage to choosing one designation over the other for civilian use. In fact, it might be a matter of what modifications have already done and how much work you’re wanting to put into your trailer. Whether your goal is an overland camper, off-road utility trailer, motorcycle hauler, or expedition build, an M1101 and M1102 offer the exact same rugged military foundation. Don’t overpay simply because a seller advertises one model as being “heavier duty.” In almost every case, you’re looking at the same trailer with a different identification plate. Final Thoughts The M1101 versus M1102 debate has confused military trailer buyers for years, but the answer is refreshingly simple. They’re the same trailer. The different model numbers exist solely to match the towing capacity of the military vehicle assigned to pull them—not because the trailers themselves are built differently. For civilian owners, that means you can confidently shop for the cleanest, best-maintained example regardless of what the data plate says. That’s one less mystery standing between you and one of the toughest surplus trailers ever built. More of Our M1101 Content M1101 Paint Refresh ChatGPT Designed, 3d Printed M1101 Replacement Marker Light Housings M1101/2 12 Volt Conversion Purchasing an M1101 Trailer

One of the most common questions from new M1101 and M1102 trailer owners is what wheels and tires came on these military trailers from the factory. The stock M1101 and M1102 use the same wheel and tire package found on the military HMMWV (Humvee): For many overland builds, the stock Humvee wheel and run-flat system is one of the first components owners replace, especially when matching the trailer to the tow vehicle’s wheel pattern and tire size. More of Our M1101 Content M1101 Paint Refresh ChatGPT Designed, 3d Printed M1101 Replacement Marker Light Housings M1101/2 12 Volt Conversion Purchasing an M1101 Trailer

One of the biggest issues for just about anyone who has an M1101/2 military trailer is the tongue is simply too tall for their tow vehicle and will create substantial rake. The trailer angles down significantly and is nowhere near level. The trailer sat noticeably rear-high. Like many M1101 owners, I started searching for ways to lower the tongue height without cutting apart the trailer or fabricating an entirely new tongue assembly. I had some upcoming work around the cabin I wanted to use it for, and didn’t have time for downtime working on a custom fabrication at the moment. After digging through forums and trailer parts catalogs, I came across the Dexter Model 6 Adjustable Channel Inner Slide on eTrailer. After installing it on my M1101, it lowered the tongue approximately 2.25 inches and made a noticeable improvement in the tow angle the trailer sits behind my truck. Why I Was Looking for a Tongue Drop Solution Military trailers like the M1101 and M1102 were designed to be used with the Humvee military vehicle that sist much higher than modern pickup trucks. Several people will go with different wheels and frequently shorter tires, often 33″ tread. This will lower you down 2″ from the OEM 37″ tires that come with the trailer. I’m planning on running 35″ tires on my trailer, which will only give a 1″ drop. In my case, the trailer always carried a noticeable forward rake when connected to my tow vehicle. I considered several options: The problem is that none of those options are particularly quick. What I really wanted was something I could bolt on in an afternoon and test before committing to major fabrication work when my schedule better allowed. I also don’t trust my welding skills at this point to have a trailer in-tow to be tested by my welds. I’ll definitely be have a friend of mine help out on that one when the time comes. The Dexter Adjustable Channel The Dexter channel provides multiple mounting positions that allow you to move the coupler higher or lower depending on your setup. One feature I particularly liked is the flexibility it offers for different hitch styles. The channel can be configured to use: For M1101 owners who are still deciding which hitch setup they want long-term, that flexibility is a nice bonus. Installation and Results Installation was straightforward and required no permanent modifications to the trailer. I mounted the coupler in the lowest available position, which dropped the tongue approximately 2.25 inches. The trailer now sits much closer to level behind my truck than it did before. If you’re dealing with an M1101 that has excessive rake, this is probably one of the quickest improvements you can make. The Downside (At Least for Me) While the Dexter channel solved my height issue, it created a new problem. Because the bracket is designed to provide both upward and downward adjustment, there is a large section of the channel that extends above the tongue. On my setup, that upper section prevents the tailgate from fully opening. It’s not a dealbreaker, but it is something I noticed immediately after installation. I suspect many M1101 owners will run into the same issue depending on their tow vehicle and hitch setup. Why I’ll Probably Build My Own Version Later As useful as this bracket has been, I don’t think it will be my permanent solution. My long-term plan is to fabricate a custom drop bracket, likely as part of an extended tongue project. If I build one, it will: A dedicated drop-only version would be more useful for most military trailer owners than the current raise-and-lower design. Perhaps eTrailer or other manufactures will offer one in the future. Let me know if you’ve found any off-the-shelf options that are a drop-down only. Unless you’re towing behind something with an extreme lift kit or a military vehicle, it’s difficult to imagine needing the higher mounting positions. Final Verdict If you’re looking for an easy way to lower an M1101 or M1102 trailer tongue without fabricating custom parts, the Dexter adjustable channel is one of the few off-the-shelf solutions available. It’s easy to install, compatible with multiple hitch styles, and lowered my trailer approximately 2.25 inches. The raised portion of the bracket can interfere with tailgate operation, and I still plan to build a custom solution eventually. However, for a quick bolt-on upgrade that noticeably improves trailer stance, it’s hard to argue with the results. Sometimes the best modification isn’t the perfect one—it’s the one that gets the job done while you figure out the next phase of the build. p.s. After a few relatively short months, the lunette ring I went with certainly isn’t resistant to the elements. Rather than sticking with the patina, I’ll be sanding it down and painting it sooner than later. More of Our M1101 Content M1101 Paint Refresh ChatGPT Designed, 3d Printed M1101 Replacement Marker Light Housings M1101/2 12 Volt Conversion Purchasing an M1101 Trailer

When I first picked up my M1101, the lighting had definitely seen better days. The lenses were faded, the housings were weathered, and the taillights didn’t even match—one side had been upgraded to LEDs at some point, while the other was still running old-school incandescent bulbs. Simple Upgrade, Big Impact Rather than trying to piece things together, I decided to replace everything with matching LED side markers and taillights from Hecasa. The install was mostly plug-and-play (after drilling out rivets): Hecasa Humvee/M1101/M1102 Replacement LED Taillights The Hecasa LED taillights (Amazon affiliate link) are listed as 12v, which is what I needed for my trailer since I converted it to 12v. However, reviews were mixed how well they work on the native 24v system of the HUMVEE. One Humvee owner mentioned issues afterwards with the lights failing. Hecasa Side Marker Lamps Here’s my installed Hecasa MMWV, 2 1/2 Ton and 5 Ton Military Trucks 12V Turn Signal Parking Lamp with Amber Lens (Amazon affiliate link). As previously mentioned, drilling out rivets were required before I could install. Once they were drilled out, I used the included bolt/nut/washer hardware that was included with the lights. No more rivets! More on that next… One Extra Step: Side Marker Mounting Upgrade One thing worth calling out—the side marker lights aren’t quite as simple as the taillights. From the factory, they’re riveted into plastic buckets, and those buckets are riveted into the trailer body. To remove them, I had to drill out the rivets. Rather than reinstalling them the same way, I wanted something more serviceable for the future. I ended up installing rivet nuts in place of the original rivets, which allowed me to: I’ll go deeper into that setup in my 3D Printed M1101 Side Marker Bucket post. The Hecasa Rear Marker Replacements At the very back of the M1101 trailer are 3 LED marker lights that are mounted to fairly thick angle iron steel. These don’t use plastic housings like the other side marker lights, but they are still riveted in. Once again, I opted to go with M4 rivet nuts for easier removal (if ever needed). Note: I only installed 3 rivet nuts for each of these rear marker lights. The Hecasa lights have a grounding bolt that will attach a grounding wiring with a nut and washer that go on the back side. For the M4 rivet nuts, I did have to drill out a slightly larger hole. M3 Rivet Nuts would have fit, but the M3 hardware looked to small to me. I’ve only found the Hecasa side marker lights available in pairs, so I did end up with a spare for the rear. HECASA 2Pcs Rear LED Side Marker Lights Compatible with HMMWV, 2 1/2 Ton and 5 Ton Military Trucks and M1101/M1102 Military Trailer 12V Turn Signal Parking Lamp Plastic Rear Red Lens (Amazon affiliate link). The Result This upgrade completely changed the look of the trailer. The new LEDs are brighter, cleaner, and give off a much more modern feel. Combined with the fresh paint job, the trailer now leans hard into that restomod aesthetic—it honestly looks like a brand-new build with military roots. If you’re still running old or mismatched lights on your M1101/M1102, this is an upgrade you can do that delivers an immediate visual payoff. As far as the quality of the lights, I will post updates on any issues related to reliability and how well they hold up against the elements.

I decided to take a different approach with my M1101 trailer this time—no spray gun, no compressor, no professional setup. Just rattle cans. And honestly? I’m pretty happy with how it turned out. Why I Went the Rattle Can Route This wasn’t about building a show trailer—it was about building something I can actually use and maintain. With spray paint: If it gets beat up on the trail, I’ll just grab another can and touch it up. Done. The Color Combo (Better Than Expected) For this build, I used: The satin gray gives it that clean, modern look, while the gloss black adds contrast and makes the hardware pop. Prep Work I didn’t go overboard here: Not perfect. Not meticulous. Just enough to get paint to stick. And that’s kind of the point—I want to see how well this holds up in the real world, not in a perfect garage scenario. How It Looks So Far Even with just a couple coats so far, it looks clean, uniform, and way better than the worn military finish it had before. I do plan on adding an additional coat later. The Real Test: Durability This is where I’m most curious. Since I didn’t fully sand everything, I’ll be keeping an eye on: The upside is, touch-ups are about as easy as it gets. What I’m Planning Next The outside is done (for now), but the inside of the trailer box is next. I’m deciding between: Either way, I want something that can take abuse hauling what ever I throw at it. Next M1101 Upgrade Here’s a preview of the aftermarket taillights: Final Thoughts If you’ve been putting off repainting your trailer because it feels like too big of a project—don’t. This was: And most importantly, it fits how I actually use the trailer. Sometimes “good enough” is exactly what you need.

For just about everyone who picks up a military trailer, if it was purchased at a military auction you’ll find it was wired for 24 volts, the native voltage system of the HUMVEE. The first thing you’re likely looking to do is make it compatible with your civilian tow vehicle (unless you have a military HUMVEE to pair it with). One positive is you don’t have to rewire the entire trailer. When I picked mine up from auction, I brought several zip ties knowing my magnets on my magnetic tow lights wouldn’t help much on the aluminum box of the M1101. There actually seemed to be decent mounting places on the steel frame, but I still used zip ties to ensure the temporary tow lights didn’t fall. Adapters Now, there are some adapters out there, however, the general consensus is they are rather over-priced for what they are. If they’re in your budget and you want to the fastest solution, these adapters might be your best choice. Most use the 4-pin flat. I’ve also seen some 7 blade harnesses on eBay that a seller has made themselves, crimping on some packard connectors (also called shell connectors) that will plug right in to the existing quick disconnects. Then, you just have to bolt down the ground wire for the new harness. I went with the Conntek 10110-124BX 7-Way Cord & Wired Junction Box, 10.3′. For most vehicles, I wouldn’t recommend going any shorter assuming you plan to connect at the quick disconnects of the trailer. Splicing in a Harness I opted to splice a new harness myself and also went with a junction box. I considered using packard connectors, but they don’t seem readily available and more I searched for them it sounded like they weren’t used that often anymore, replaced by a new, more modern harness option. Not far from the front of the trailer box, you’ll find the packard connectors. These are quick disconnects and you’ll be able to completely remove the original 12-pin harness. From here, you have a few different options. M1101/2 Junction Box Wiring 7-pin (7-blade) junction box setup—this will also give me future expansion for possible camping lights, rock lights, or even a small battery setup. Original M1101 Wiring Harness The factory setup includes: It’s durable—but not practical. You can adapt it… but after digging into it, I realized: Rewire vs. Adapter You’ve got two paths: Option 1 — Rewire at the Packard Connections (What I Did) ✔ Clean✔ Reliable✔ Upgradable Option 2 — Adapter ✔ Quick plug and play – no splicing✔ Retains originally 12-pin harness✖ More expensive The Setup I Went With (Simple + Future-Proof) Here’s what I installed: This gives me: The Wiring Diagram (What Connects Where) This is the standard 7-pin layout I used: White → Ground – I ran a ground wire from the junction block to the existing ground near the disconnectsBrown → 22 460 Running lights Red → 22 461 Left turn / brake Green → 21 A Right turn / brake Inside the junction box, each of these wires gets its own terminal—making everything clean and serviceable. Grounding If your lights flicker, dim, or act weird… it’s almost always a bad ground. Again, I simply ran a ground wire from the grounding terminal in the junction box to the same ground location that was near the quick disconnects. Tips to use: This alone eliminates 90% of trailer wiring issues. Bonus: Wire It for Future You Even if you don’t need it yet, a 7-blade junction box is ready for: Trust me—you’ll want these later. Prep Work I ordered my harness several months ago and finally started getting around to installing it. I noticed since then some junction boxes have color coding on them. I decided to buy some oil-based paint markers so I could color code mine. It’s a lot easier than trying to read the raised plastic text. Here’s after I color coded the ends of the terminals with the paint markers. Later, I also added a stripe to the plastic just in case the terminal paint fades or peels off. M1101 12v Conversion For my installation, I ended up cutting the 3 necessary wires and crimped on non-insulated ring terminals. I cut a slit in one of the grommets of the junction box and pulled the wires through. Noticed I also added color-coded zip ties to the original M1101 wiring to match what terminal the wire needed to go to. I figured this was also easier than reading a number code on the metal tags and having to cross-reference it if I ever had to remove them for some reason. Next, it was time to make the connections. Mounting the Junction Box I ended up marking the holes for where I would bolt the junction box. I drilled the holes and then installed rivet nuts (also called riv nuts for short). Some might try self tapping screws, but I’ve found more and more projects where I’m using these rivet nuts. The junction box I purchased had 2 mounting tabs, one on each end. Here’s the first riv nut installed. Mounted and Installed 24V Lights vs 12V You technically can run the stock 24V tail lights. They certainly won’t be as bright since they were designed for twice the voltage. Since mine were mismatched when I bought the trailer, I decided to go with a new pair, but these are the taillights that came on my trailer. Especially in daylight, the passenger side incadescent wasn’t nearly as bright as the LED light that had apparently been swapped in at some point by the military. Running a “trailer light test” from the truck (hence the lights flashing). And here’s the passenger side light which I assume was original to the trailer: I swapped mine to LED HUMVEE replacement lights that were listed as 12V lights, they were made by Hecasa. Time will tell how these perform, but so far so good. When I bought my trailer