Automotive

M1101 Lighting Upgrade: Refresh with a Modern Twist

Trailers /
m1101 m1102 humvee replacement led side marker lights and led replacement taillights

When I first picked up my M1101, the lighting had definitely seen better days. The lenses were faded, the housings were weathered, and the taillights didn’t even match—one side had been upgraded to LEDs at some point, while the other was still running old-school incandescent bulbs. Simple Upgrade, Big Impact Rather than trying to piece things together, I decided to replace everything with matching LED side markers and taillights from Hecasa. The install was mostly plug-and-play (after drilling out rivets): Hecasa Humvee/M1101/M1102 Replacement LED Taillights The Hecasa LED taillights (Amazon affiliate link) are listed as 12v, which is what I needed for my trailer since I converted it to 12v. However, reviews were mixed how well they work on the native 24v system of the HUMVEE. One Humvee owner mentioned issues afterwards with the lights failing. Hecasa Side Marker Lamps Here’s my installed Hecasa MMWV, 2 1/2 Ton and 5 Ton Military Trucks 12V Turn Signal Parking Lamp with Amber Lens (Amazon affiliate link). As previously mentioned, drilling out rivets were required before I could install. Once they were drilled out, I used the included bolt/nut/washer hardware that was included with the lights. No more rivets! More on that next… One Extra Step: Side Marker Mounting Upgrade One thing worth calling out—the side marker lights aren’t quite as simple as the taillights. From the factory, they’re riveted into plastic buckets, and those buckets are riveted into the trailer body. To remove them, I had to drill out the rivets. Rather than reinstalling them the same way, I wanted something more serviceable for the future. I ended up installing rivet nuts in place of the original rivets, which allowed me to: I’ll go deeper into that setup in my 3D Printed M1101 Side Marker Bucket post. The Hecasa Rear Marker Replacements At the very back of the M1101 trailer are 3 LED marker lights that are mounted to fairly thick angle iron steel. These don’t use plastic housings like the other side marker lights, but they are still riveted in. Once again, I opted to go with M4 rivet nuts for easier removal (if ever needed). Note: I only installed 3 rivet nuts for each of these rear marker lights. The Hecasa lights have a grounding bolt that will attach a grounding wiring with a nut and washer that go on the back side. For the M4 rivet nuts, I did have to drill out a slightly larger hole. M3 Rivet Nuts would have fit, but the M3 hardware looked to small to me. I’ve only found the Hecasa side marker lights available in pairs, so I did end up with a spare for the rear. HECASA 2Pcs Rear LED Side Marker Lights Compatible with HMMWV, 2 1/2 Ton and 5 Ton Military Trucks and M1101/M1102 Military Trailer 12V Turn Signal Parking Lamp Plastic Rear Red Lens (Amazon affiliate link). The Result This upgrade completely changed the look of the trailer. The new LEDs are brighter, cleaner, and give off a much more modern feel. Combined with the fresh paint job, the trailer now leans hard into that restomod aesthetic—it honestly looks like a brand-new build with military roots. If you’re still running old or mismatched lights on your M1101/M1102, this is an upgrade you can do that delivers an immediate visual payoff. As far as the quality of the lights, I will post updates on any issues related to reliability and how well they hold up against the elements.

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I Repainted My M1101 Trailer with Spray Cans… Here’s How It Turned Out

Trailers /
m1101 spray paint job coastal grey

I decided to take a different approach with my M1101 trailer this time—no spray gun, no compressor, no professional setup. Just rattle cans. And honestly? I’m pretty happy with how it turned out. Why I Went the Rattle Can Route This wasn’t about building a show trailer—it was about building something I can actually use and maintain. With spray paint: If it gets beat up on the trail, I’ll just grab another can and touch it up. Done. The Color Combo (Better Than Expected) For this build, I used: The satin gray gives it that clean, modern look, while the gloss black adds contrast and makes the hardware pop. Prep Work I didn’t go overboard here: Not perfect. Not meticulous. Just enough to get paint to stick. And that’s kind of the point—I want to see how well this holds up in the real world, not in a perfect garage scenario. How It Looks So Far Even with just a couple coats so far, it looks clean, uniform, and way better than the worn military finish it had before. I do plan on adding an additional coat later. The Real Test: Durability This is where I’m most curious. Since I didn’t fully sand everything, I’ll be keeping an eye on: The upside is, touch-ups are about as easy as it gets. What I’m Planning Next The outside is done (for now), but the inside of the trailer box is next. I’m deciding between: Either way, I want something that can take abuse hauling what ever I throw at it. Next M1101 Upgrade Here’s a preview of the aftermarket taillights: Final Thoughts If you’ve been putting off repainting your trailer because it feels like too big of a project—don’t. This was: And most importantly, it fits how I actually use the trailer. Sometimes “good enough” is exactly what you need.

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Tuyoung Cybertruck Roof Rack Review & Install (A Fraction of OEM $$$)

Automotive, Cybertruck, Electric Vehicles, Tesla /
tuyoung cybertruck aftermarket roof rack cross bar

Tuyoung Cybertruck Roof Rack Review: Better Styling Than Tesla OEM? If you’re anything like me, one of the first things you notice about the Tesla Cybertruck is how intentional every line and angle is. That’s exactly why I passed on the OEM roof rack. It works—but the curved crossbar design doesn’t match the truck’s flat, angular aesthetic. So I went looking for something better… and landed on this: 👉 Tuyoung Cybertruck Roof Rack Cross Bars B0DRTXW698 (Amazon affiliate link) 🔥 Quick Verdict (Before We Dive In) The Rack I Chose 👉 Tuyoung Cybertruck Roof Rack Cross Bars B0DRTXW698 ✔ Designed specifically for Cybertruck✔ Follows sail panel angles✔ Adjustable mounting positions (for which of the 4 positions on the truck you want to install)✔ Multiple bolt-down mounting holes 🛠️ Installation (Real-World Experience) Install is straight forward. Bolt the 3 piece sections together depending on the position on the truck you want to install. Install the mounting feet, then one nut on each side then mounts the cross bar to the truck. What You’ll Need Install Steps Figure 1 Figure 3 Figure 4 👉 No drilling. No modification. Straightforward. ⚠️ Important Tradeoff (The “Con” That Matters) This is something most reviews won’t tell you—but it’s important: Geometry vs Compatibility The reason I chose this rack might be its biggest limitation – depending on what accessories you want to use. Because of the larger, angular crossbar design: 👍 The Workaround (And Why It’s Still Worth It) The rack includes multiple bolt-down mounting holes, which means: 💡 This actually makes it better for: 👉 But less ideal if you frequently swap accessories using clamping systems that typically use “thumb screws” that don’t require any tools to remove. 🏁 Quick Decision Guide 🧰 Recommended Accessories Here’s where you start stacking revenue 👇 Cargo Storage (High Conversion) Rooftop Cargo Box ✔ Great for road trips✔ Weatherproof✔ Works with bolt-on adapters Recovery & Overland Gear Traction Boards 👉 MAXTRAX MKII Recovery Boards ✔ Perfect for snow / sand / mud✔ Easy bolt-down mounting 🛶 Water Sports Setup Kayak Mount (Requires Adapter) 👉 Yakima JayLow Kayak Carrier ⚠️ May require custom bracket due to crossbar shape For this trip I just used ratchet straps, but the kayak also scratched the cross bar in a couple of spots. 🔧 Mounting Hardware (HIGHLY Recommended) Universal Mounting Plates / Hardware 👉 Rhino-Rack Universal Mounting Plate Kit ✔ Makes bolt-on accessories easy✔ Solves compatibility issue 🔗 Tie-Down Essentials Ratchet Straps 👉 Rhino USA Ratchet Straps ✔ Strong + reliable✔ Essential for any rack setup 💡 Pro Setup Ideas (Great for Future Content) This rack is PERFECT for: Final Verdict 👉 Tuyoung Cybertruck Roof Rack Cross Bars B0DRTXW698 If you care about: This is one of the best upgrades you can make. Just know this: You’re trading: For:

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How I Used ChatGPT to Design a Custom 3D-Printed Humvee Side Marker Housing

Automotive, Trailers /
chatgpt created this 3d model of m1101 side marker light housings

Concerned About Old Stock – Print Instead! If you’ve ever owned military surplus equipment like an M1101 or M1102 trailer, you already know the struggle: 👉 Replacement parts aren’t always easy to find👉 And when you do find them… they’re expensive or worn out That’s exactly where I found myself with a broken Humvee side marker light housing. When I bought my M1101 trailer at auction, 2 of the 6 side marker light houses were already cracked. When I went to remove another for troubleshooting (2 lights weren’t lighting up after converted to a 12v harness), that housing cracked as well. It was obvious these housings were quite brittle after years of being in the elements. Instead of taking a gamble on used or “New Old Stock (NOS)” I decided to see if ChatGPT could create 3d models for me to print. I still don’t have a 3d printer, but have a couple friends who did. Big thanks to B3D for printing multiple revisions for testing before we finalized the design. 💡 I used ChatGPT to help design a fully custom 3D-printable replacement from scratch. And it worked—better than expected. The Goal: OEM Look, Modern Method I didn’t just want “something that fits.” I wanted: That meant designing a custom STL file—and that’s where ChatGPT came in. Step 1: Starting With Reference Photos I started by: Then I fed all of that into ChatGPT. Step 2: Iterating STL Designs With ChatGPT Instead of traditional CAD software from scratch, I used ChatGPT to: The revision process looked like this: This wasn’t one-and-done—it was true iterative design, just like professional product development. Step 3: Solving Real-World Fitment Problems Once I started printing test versions, real-world issues showed up fast: 🔧 Problems I ran into: 🧠 How ChatGPT helped fix them: This is where ChatGPT really shines: It acts like a rapid prototyping partner, not just a tool. Step 4: Dialing in the OEM Look Getting the part to fit was only half the battle. Getting it to look right required: The final version: Step 5: Printing the Final Part For the final prints, I recommend: 🧵 Filament ⚙️ Settings NOTE: You’ll probably notice no holes in the housing for mounting the light or installing on the trailer. Earlier prototypes had some holes, but they weren’t quite aligned properly. During the iterative process, and decided it would be easier to drill them out later. I’ll set up the first bucket with holes properly drilled and use it as a jig for the other holes to be drilled out. What I Learned Using ChatGPT for 3D Design This project completely changed how I think about design workflows. 🚀 Biggest takeaways: Why This Matters for DIY Builders This isn’t just about one part. This is about a new workflow: 🧠 Idea → ChatGPT → STL → Print → Refine → Done For: Final Thoughts What started as a broken part turned into: Want the STL? My friend who printed them for me uploaded the STL to his MakerWorld account, go here to download the M1101 Humvee Trailer Marker Light Housing.

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Wiring My M1101 Military Trailer — Here’s the Clean 7-Pin Setup

Trailers /

For just about everyone who picks up a military trailer, if it was purchased at a military auction you’ll find it was wired for 24 volts, the native voltage system of the HUMVEE. The first thing you’re likely looking to do is make it compatible with your civilian tow vehicle (unless you have a military HUMVEE to pair it with). One positive is you don’t have to rewire the entire trailer. When I picked mine up from auction, I brought several zip ties knowing my magnets on my magnetic tow lights wouldn’t help much on the aluminum box of the M1101. There actually seemed to be decent mounting places on the steel frame, but I still used zip ties to ensure the temporary tow lights didn’t fall. Adapters Now, there are some adapters out there, however, the general consensus is they are rather over-priced for what they are. If they’re in your budget and you want to the fastest solution, these adapters might be your best choice. Most use the 4-pin flat. I’ve also seen some 7 blade harnesses on eBay that a seller has made themselves, crimping on some packard connectors (also called shell connectors) that will plug right in to the existing quick disconnects. Then, you just have to bolt down the ground wire for the new harness. I went with the Conntek 10110-124BX 7-Way Cord & Wired Junction Box, 10.3′. For most vehicles, I wouldn’t recommend going any shorter assuming you plan to connect at the quick disconnects of the trailer. Splicing in a Harness I opted to splice a new harness myself and also went with a junction box. I considered using packard connectors, but they don’t seem readily available and more I searched for them it sounded like they weren’t used that often anymore, replaced by a new, more modern harness option. Not far from the front of the trailer box, you’ll find the packard connectors. These are quick disconnects and you’ll be able to completely remove the original 12-pin harness. From here, you have a few different options. M1101/2 Junction Box Wiring 7-pin (7-blade) junction box setup—this will also give me future expansion for possible camping lights, rock lights, or even a small battery setup. Original M1101 Wiring Harness The factory setup includes: It’s durable—but not practical. You can adapt it… but after digging into it, I realized: Rewire vs. Adapter You’ve got two paths: Option 1 — Rewire at the Packard Connections (What I Did) ✔ Clean✔ Reliable✔ Upgradable Option 2 — Adapter ✔ Quick plug and play – no splicing✔ Retains originally 12-pin harness✖ More expensive The Setup I Went With (Simple + Future-Proof) Here’s what I installed: This gives me: The Wiring Diagram (What Connects Where) This is the standard 7-pin layout I used: White → Ground – I ran a ground wire from the junction block to the existing ground near the disconnectsBrown → 22 460 Running lights Red → 22 461 Left turn / brake Green → 21 A Right turn / brake Inside the junction box, each of these wires gets its own terminal—making everything clean and serviceable. Grounding If your lights flicker, dim, or act weird… it’s almost always a bad ground. Again, I simply ran a ground wire from the grounding terminal in the junction box to the same ground location that was near the quick disconnects. Tips to use: This alone eliminates 90% of trailer wiring issues. Bonus: Wire It for Future You Even if you don’t need it yet, a 7-blade junction box is ready for: Trust me—you’ll want these later. Prep Work I ordered my harness several months ago and finally started getting around to installing it. I noticed since then some junction boxes have color coding on them. I decided to buy some oil-based paint markers so I could color code mine. It’s a lot easier than trying to read the raised plastic text. Here’s after I color coded the ends of the terminals with the paint markers. Later, I also added a stripe to the plastic just in case the terminal paint fades or peels off. M1101 12v Conversion For my installation, I ended up cutting the 3 necessary wires and crimped on non-insulated ring terminals. I cut a slit in one of the grommets of the junction box and pulled the wires through. Noticed I also added color-coded zip ties to the original M1101 wiring to match what terminal the wire needed to go to. I figured this was also easier than reading a number code on the metal tags and having to cross-reference it if I ever had to remove them for some reason. Next, it was time to make the connections. Mounting the Junction Box I ended up marking the holes for where I would bolt the junction box. I drilled the holes and then installed rivet nuts (also called riv nuts for short). Some might try self tapping screws, but I’ve found more and more projects where I’m using these rivet nuts. The junction box I purchased had 2 mounting tabs, one on each end. Here’s the first riv nut installed. Mounted and Installed 24V Lights vs 12V You technically can run the stock 24V tail lights. They certainly won’t be as bright since they were designed for twice the voltage. Since mine were mismatched when I bought the trailer, I decided to go with a new pair, but these are the taillights that came on my trailer. Especially in daylight, the passenger side incadescent wasn’t nearly as bright as the LED light that had apparently been swapped in at some point by the military. Running a “trailer light test” from the truck (hence the lights flashing). And here’s the passenger side light which I assume was original to the trailer: I swapped mine to LED HUMVEE replacement lights that were listed as 12V lights, they were made by Hecasa. Time will tell how these perform, but so far so good. When I bought my trailer

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⚠️ Cybertruck PCS Issue? My PowerShare Failure → “Fixed Itself” → 24A Limit → Rev G Replacement (Full Timeline)

Automotive, Cybertruck, Electric Vehicles, Tesla /
tesla cybertruck pcs2 error

I wanted to share a full timeline of a PCS (Power Conversion System) issue I just went through with my Cybertruck, because the way it failed was not obvious at first. This is certainly an increasingly known issue. This might help if you’re seeing weird PowerShare behavior or charging limitations. ⚡ Phase 1: PowerShare Worked… But Intermittent During a recent outage, I used PowerShare to run the house. It worked, but: My daughter’s were home from school after a closure because of the storm that knocked out power throughout the town. They mentioned the internet was frequently dropping and lights would occasionally flicker. I reached out to Tesla, but they recommended I reach out to my electrician. No response from my electrician, so I decided to see if I could get anywhere with Tesla again. ⚠️ Phase 2: “Unable to Charge” Error (Weeks Later) A few weeks later I got: “Vehicle unable to charge” When I checked the details: 👉 It pointed to a PCS / PowerShare-related fault So I scheduled a service appointment. In the error log, I noticed it had a second PCS2_a095 error that mentioned PowerShare unavailable. 🔄 Phase 3: It Starts Charging Again (False Confidence) Here’s where it gets tricky… I left the truck plugged into my 120V UMC, and about a day later: 👉 It started charging again like normal. So I: In hindsight… probably a mistake. However, I also wasn’t confident with Tesla’s response that they knew what the issue truly was. ⚡ Phase 4: 240V Charging Exposes the Real Issue Several days later, I plugged into a 240V EVSE. Immediately noticed: At that point, I was pretty confident: 👉 PCS issue wasn’t gone—it was just partially failing So I rescheduled service. 🔧 Phase 5: Tesla Replaces PCS (Now “Rev G”) Tesla diagnosed it and replaced the PCS under warranty. Apparently they’ve updated this component multiple times. Ideally this will be a permanent fix. I’ve heard this is several thousands of dollars to fix if out of warranty. 🧠 What Made This Hard to Catch This wasn’t a clean failure. It: 👉 It gave just enough normal behavior to second-guess the issue. 🔍 Key Symptom to Watch For If I had to call out the biggest red flag: Charging capped at 24A on 240V That seems to be a strong indicator something isn’t right with the PCS. 🛠️ Where I’m At Now (2 Weeks Later) I’m about 4 weeks into the new Rev G PCS: But I’m definitely watching it closely. 🔁 What I’m Doing Differently Now Going forward: 💡 Takeaways for Other Owners If you’re seeing anything weird: Tesla had asked me several questions when I first contacted them. They asked if there were any other accessories I had installed on the truck, if I had used the power receptacles in the vault for anything, etc. My rescheduled appointment was nearly a month out. It certainly seems they are more aware of the issue now. Many feel this should be a recall, I definitely agree with the number of failures that seem to continue to pop up.

⚠️ Cybertruck PCS Issue? My PowerShare Failure → “Fixed Itself” → 24A Limit → Rev G Replacement (Full Timeline) Read More »

Cybertruck Integrated Central Control Storage Box Installation & Review (TesStudio / CyberGearCo)

Automotive, Cybertruck, Electric Vehicles, Tesla /
tesla cybertruck center console organizer

Ongoing Review: Fitment, Durability, Noise & Storage Performance Over Time Cybertruck Integrated Central Control Storage Box: Installation, MOLLE Integration & Ongoing Review The Tesla Cybertruck features some of the most unique interior design choices of any modern vehicle—and while the center aisle area is spacious, it’s also underutilized. After experimenting with different organization options and MOLLE accessories, I finally purchased the Integrated Central Control Storage Box from Amazon, a modular center console upgrade distributed by TesStudio, CyberGearCo, and several other vendors. I picked mine up on Amazon during a Black Friday sale for $224.99 (sold by TesStudio under the Amazon name TESCYBERMODS). Today, this organizer typically retails between $269.99–$299.99, depending on the seller. Currently, there’s a coupon on Amazon bringing the price down to $269.99. This article includes:✔ Full installation steps✔ MOLLE panel mounting details✔ What fits (and what doesn’t)✔ Pros & cons✔ Future modification ideas✔ And an ongoing review section that I’ll update over time—including durability, squeaks, rattles, and storage performance. Why I Upgraded My Cybertruck Center Console I previously added a Foronetry Floor Lower Center Console Mat so I could mount a BuiltRight Industries Tech Panel MOLLE without drilling into Tesla’s OEM interior. I mounted a fire extinguisher using Quick Fist clamps, and while this setup worked, it didn’t offer the organizational structure I wanted. The Integrated Central Control Storage Box fills this space perfectly, adds multiple compartments, and provides an ideal mounting platform for additional gear. It also adds extra storage for phones—but it would have been even better if the manufacturer had included inductive charging, especially given that Tesla’s OEM wireless chargers are known to have reliability issues. Hopefully future revisions include this. Installation Guide for the Cybertruck Integrated Storage Box Installation took me around 20–25 minutes. Here are the official steps from the included manual, followed by my hands-on notes. Installation Steps My Real-World Assembly Notes Instruction reference: Finished install: MOLLE Panel Integration (BuiltRight Industries) After installing the organizer, I re-mounted my existing BuiltRight MOLLE Tech Panel directly onto the new storage box. The process was simple: I originally mounted a fire extinguisher on my MOLLE panel when I previously had this tech plate installed on a Foronetry Floor Lower Center Console Mat, but after a quick test fit, it was clear the extinguisher was too tall for the new console. For now, I swapped to my KC HiLiTES multi-tool flashlight using a Quick Fist mount. I may add a second flashlight or explore alternative MOLLE-mounted accessories. This mod is one of my favorite aspects of the new console—mounting gear to the organizer instead of the factory Cybertruck interior keeps everything reversible and clean. Review: Pros & Cons After Initial Installation ⭐ Pros ✔ Significantly increases usable storage From compartments to phone slots and side pockets, the upgrade makes the Cybertruck’s center aisle far more functional. ✔ OEM-style fit and finish Once assembled, the unit feels sturdy with a clean, factory-like appearance. ✔ MOLLE-friendly mounting surface Perfect for flashlights, tools, radios, or emergency gear. ✔ Straightforward assembly Other than two tight-fitting pieces, the installation is beginner-friendly. ⚠️ Cons & Wish List ❗ No inductive charging included The organizer adds storage for phones—but misses a huge opportunity by not including wireless charging.Given Tesla’s history of OEM inductive charging issues, this would’ve been a major selling point. ❗ Tight tolerances on Parts D & F These sections require patience and extra effort. ❗ Cupholders may go unused Functionally fine, but I’m not convinced I’ll use them often. Future Modifications I’m Planning I’m already considering the next steps: Ongoing Long-Term Review (Updates Coming) Over the next several weeks and months, I will update this article with: Bookmark this page—more updates coming. Final Thoughts (Initial Verdict) At its current price point, especially when discounted, the Integrated Central Control Storage Box is one of the most useful interior upgrades for the Cybertruck. It adds meaningful storage, improves organization, and gives you a solid platform for MOLLE-mounted accessories. While inductive charging would have made the phone slot far better, the overall utility of this upgrade still makes it worth the buy.

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🔥 XKGlow Cybertruck Light Bar Review & Install Guide

Automotive, Cybertruck, Electric Vehicles /
xkglow tesla cybertruck lightbar installation and review

Is the XKGlow XKMAX Light Bar Worth It for Tesla Cybertruck? If you’re searching for a XKGlow Cybertruck light bar review or trying to figure out how to install one on your Tesla Cybertruck, you’re in the right place. I recently installed the XKGlow XKMAX Roof Light Bar (MX-CTLB) on my Cybertruck, and in this guide I’ll walk you through: 🛠️ Tools & Materials Needed: 🔌 How to Install the XKGlow Cybertruck Light Bar 1. Test the Light Bar First (Pre-install) 2. Access the Roof Power Feed 3. Connect the Wiring Harness Using the included heat-shrink solder connectors: Apply heat until the solder melts and the connector fully seals. 👉 This creates a strong, weather-resistant connection. 4. Position the Light Bar 5. Enable Roof Power (Cybertruck UI) 6. Install Mounting Hardware 7. Secure to the Cybertruck Roof (this is the most tedius step) Even with the shortened allen head wrench provided, it is extremely tight to try and get inside of the XKGlow bracket to tighten the bolts, especially the ones towards the front of the truck. In my opinion, it would have been better if they had holes drilled out on top of the bracket to fit the allen head wrench through. 8. Align & Tighten 9. Mount the Controller 10. Setup the App & Customize Tip: Change the default mode in the app under Config > Default Mode 🌟 Product Review: XK Glow XKMAX Light Bar for Tesla Cybertruck ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️½ (4.5/5) 🔦 Performance (Brightness & Output) This thing is seriously bright. Perfect for: 📲 App & Smart Features The XKGlow app is surprisingly solid: It’s not just a light bar—it’s a fully customizable lighting system. 🧰 Installation Experience If you’ve done basic wiring before, this is very manageable. What stood out: Biggest challenge: 🧼 Fit, Finish & Design This is where the XKGlow light bar really shines. ⚠️ Things to Know Before Buying 🤔 Is the XKGlow Cybertruck Light Bar Worth It? ✅ Yes — if you want: ❌ Maybe not if: Final Thoughts The XKGlow Cybertruck Light Bar is one of the better-designed aftermarket lighting upgrades available right now. It combines: …and actually feels like it was built for the Cybertruck. I’ll continue updating this post over time with: Biggest Complaints As mentioned on step 7, it’s very tight trying to fit the shortened allenhead wrench inside of the mounting bracket to secure the light bar to the vehicle. Additional design considerations should have been implemented. Offroad performance: This is a one I’m trying to find my own solution for. I’ve used the off-road light bar on forest roads. Around 30-35mph I’ve noticed the light “bounce”. The bracket mounting location is too far back from the light. You can push up on the bracket and see there’s flex. This causing the bracket to move just enough to where you’ll see the light bounce in front of you on uneven surfaces. I may use reinforcement brackets attached to my cross bar to see if that does the trick. If it’s still not rigid enough, a modification of the XKGlow bracket might be in the future for me. Tesla has moved from the adhesive mounting of the OEM lightbar to a bracket system that connects underneath the applique. A reinforcement bracket welded into the XKGlow should tighten things up, but pre-runner style reinforcement bars would be much faster to fabricate and install. Cybertruck XKGlow installation instructions provided by the manufacturer which currently seem to have a broken link from their product listing on their website.

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Buying an M1101 Military Trailer

Automotive, Trailers /
2006 raytheon m1101 military trailer

I just picked up my own M1101 from an auction in Oregon. I’ve been looking for one of these trailers for about 4-5 months, but unfortunately, most of them tend to be up for military auction in states like Colorado, Texas, Pennsylvania, and Florida. I missed out on the first one that popped up in Oregon, and when a second became available, I ended up increasing my budget—more than I initially wanted to pay. However, it was still cheaper than what I was finding on other sites such as Craigslist. I also received quotes to have one shipped out of Colorado to Washington state, but those were coming in at $1,300+, quite a bit more than I was willing to pay for shipping. Picking up my M1101 from Auction Most of the trip to get the trailer included temperatures in the low to mid-20s, never ideal for driving an EV, let alone while towing a trailer and also going through mountain passes with elevation climbs. I ended up charging 6 different times on the trip, 4 of which were on the way back. Despite the challenges, the journey was worth it, and I’m excited to share more about this versatile trailer and its potential for civilian use. A Brief History of the M1101 (and M1102) The M1101 trailer was developed as part of the military’s modernization efforts to provide a durable and highly mobile transport solution. Designed to be towed behind the Humvee (HMMWV), it features an aluminum body, independent torsion suspension, and a high ground clearance. These features make it ideal for rugged terrain, allowing it to traverse areas that standard civilian trailers may struggle with. The M1101 has a maximum payload of 2,740 lbs and an empty weight of around 1,460 lbs, making it both lightweight and capable. The M1101 military trailer, originally designed for the U.S. military, has become an increasingly popular choice for civilians looking to build capable off-road and overlanding setups. With its robust construction, high payload capacity, and versatility, the M1101 provides a solid foundation for a variety of outdoor applications. Whether it’s for hauling gear, setting up a mobile campsite, or supporting off-grid adventures, this military-grade trailer is proving its worth in the civilian world. Where to Buy Military Trailers If you’re looking to buy a military trailer at auction, one of the most common places in the United States is going to be govplanet.com. There will also be some of the more common marketplaces for private party sales such as Craigslist, FaceBook MarketPlace, etc. Sites like Trailer Trader may also have postings from time to time. I’ve used Listshopper which pulls results from multiple sites, but at least for these trailers, they primarily tend to be Craigstlist results. M1102 The trailer also comes in an M1102 variant. The consensus online appears to be that they are in fact identical except for the data plate. The M1101 and M1102 are designed for specific Humvee’s, and based on those configurations, some Humvee’s had a higher towing capacity. The data plate merely states which trailer (and load capacity) can be used with a give Humvee. Both models are sold at military surplus auctions. Civilian Uses and Overlanding Conversions Many outdoor enthusiasts and overlanding fans have embraced the M1101 as the base for their adventure trailers. Its large cargo area and high durability make it ideal for customization. Some of the most common civilian uses and modifications include: Rooftop Tent and Rack Systems Many owners install custom rack systems to support rooftop tents, providing an elevated sleeping area away from ground moisture and wildlife. These setups often include annexes for additional covered living space. Solar and Off-Grid Power Solutions Since overlanding often involves extended stays in remote locations, solar panel setups are a popular modification. Mounted either on the trailer itself or on an adjustable rack, these solar setups provide power for refrigerators, lighting, and charging electronic devices. Cooking and Storage Solutions M1101 conversions often include slide-out kitchen setups with propane stoves, storage drawers, and fold-down workspaces. This transforms the trailer into a fully functional base camp for extended trips. Pressurized Water Systems Some owners incorporate water storage tanks with pressurized systems, allowing for showers, dishwashing, and other conveniences while off the grid. These setups often include filtration systems to make water safe for drinking. Challenges and Modifications for Civilian Use While the M1101 is a fantastic trailer, converting it for civilian use does come with a few challenges. 24V to 12V Lighting Conversion Since the M1101 was designed for military vehicles, it comes equipped with a 24-volt electrical system. Most civilian vehicles operate on a 12-volt system. Therefore, most use-cases, the trailer’s stock lighting needs to be replaced or adapted. Many owners swap out the military lights for standard 12V LED lights or use voltage converters to integrate the trailer’s system with their tow vehicle. Height Considerations Another issue with the M1101 is its height. Designed to sit level behind a high-clearance Humvee, the trailer is often much taller than civilian tow vehicles. This can lead to issues with tongue height and towing stability. Many owners modify the trailer by fabricating a drop hitch (either keeping the lunette ring or going to a ball setup), using a raised hitch, and/or swapping out the 37-inch military tires for smaller off-road tires, or even going to other means to lower trailer to a more manageable height. After hooking up, there’s clearly a substantial forward rake with my setup. I ordered a 6″ raised hitch for now and also plan to go down to 35″ tires to match the Cybertruck. Conclusion The M1101 military trailer is a rugged, durable, and highly adaptable platform for overlanding and off-road adventures. While it requires some modifications for civilian use, its ability to handle rough terrain and support extensive customization makes it a favorite among outdoor enthusiasts. Whether it’s for camping or simply hauling gear, the M1101 provides a military-grade solution for any adventure. Step 1 of buying the trailer and

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Creating a Custom Cybertruck Vault Shelf with 3D-Printed Brackets and Milwaukee Packout Wall Mounts

Automotive, Cybertruck, Electric Vehicles, Tesla /
cybertruck custom milwaukee packout vault shelf

The Tesla Cybertruck’s vault provides a massive storage space, but maximizing its usability requires some creativity. I recently designed and installed a custom shelf in the vault using 3D-printed brackets, extruded aluminum, and Milwaukee Packout wall plates. Here’s how I did it and what I learned along the way. Why Build a Custom Shelf? While the aftermarket currently has a couple molle shelf options for the vault, I felt they were a bit pricey at around $500 and didn’t quite provide what I wanted. I was looking at a modular, durable, and efficient way to store tools and gear—enter the Milwaukee Packout system. My goal was to create a shelf that securely mounts Packout wall plates while keeping the vault’s floor space open for larger items. Materials Used The Build Process Step 1: Designing the 3D-Printed Brackets The key component of this build was the custom 3D-printed brackets that attach to the Cybertruck’s L-Track system. Instead of using bolts, I designed a wedge-fit mechanism with slots that securely engage with the L-Track, preventing movement. However, bolts can still be added for extra security if needed. Each bracket was also designed with slots for T-slot nuts and bolts, allowing easy mounting of the extruded aluminum frame. Step 2: Mounting the Extruded Aluminum For the shelf’s structure, I used 2040 extruded aluminum. Initially, I planned to mount it flat, but I found it had too much flex. Switching to a vertical orientation significantly improved rigidity. The aluminum was attached to the brackets using T-slot nuts and bolts, ensuring a strong, adjustable connection. This was the Aluminum Extrusion Hardware Accessories I purchased from Amazon. While the description stated “not easy to rust”, if I see any signs of corrosion I’ll look at getting a different set. Step 3: Installing the Milwaukee Packout Wall Plates With the aluminum frame securely in place, I mounted two Milwaukee Packout wall plates. These provide a rock-solid base for stacking Packout toolboxes, organizers, and storage bins, making it easy to customize my vault storage. Lessons Learned and Future Improvements Current Milwaukee Packout Cybertruck Setup These are the Milwaukee Packout cases I currently have. A 106 piece Milwaukee socket set, drill bit set, and a Packout case I currently store some of my Molle panel mounting accessories in. Final Thoughts One of the biggest advantages of this custom setup is its cost-effectiveness. Compared to aftermarket solutions, which can be quite expensive. If you have access to a 3D printer, this DIY approach with brackets and extruded aluminum was far more affordable while still offering durability and functionality. The modular design, durability, and Packout compatibility make it a game-changer for anyone looking to maximize their Cybertruck’s storage potential. If you’re considering a similar setup, 3D printing custom brackets combined with extruded aluminum and Packout mounts is a solid solution. We’re going to make a few small adjustments to the design, but will likely upload these brackets to one (or multiple) of the 3D file sharing sites such as MakerWorld. Stay tuned for future updates as I refine the design and test its weight capacity! Have Questions or Suggestions? Let me know in the comments! Would you build something similar in your Cybertruck? Also, be sure to check out our other Cybertruck articles!

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