Kevin, Author at Fabville

Wiring My M1101 Military Trailer — Here’s the Clean 7-Pin Setup

Trailers / April 17, 2026

For just about everyone who picks up a military trailer, if it was purchased at a military auction you’ll find it was wired for 24 volts, the native voltage system of the HUMVEE. The first thing you’re likely looking to do is make it compatible with your civilian tow vehicle (unless you have a military HUMVEE to pair it with). One positive is you don’t have to rewire the entire trailer. When I picked mine up from auction, I brought several zip ties knowing my magnets on my magnetic tow lights wouldn’t help much on the aluminum box of the M1101. There actually seemed to be decent mounting places on the steel frame, but I still used zip ties to ensure the temporary tow lights didn’t fall. Adapters Now, there are some adapters out there, however, the general consensus is they are rather over-priced for what they are. If they’re in your budget and you want to the fastest solution, these adapters might be your best choice. Most use the 4-pin flat. I’ve also seen some 7 blade harnesses on eBay that a seller has made themselves, crimping on some packard connectors (also called shell connectors) that will plug right in to the existing quick disconnects. Then, you just have to bolt down the ground wire for the new harness. I went with the Conntek 10110-124BX 7-Way Cord & Wired Junction Box, 10.3′. For most vehicles, I wouldn’t recommend going any shorter assuming you plan to connect at the quick disconnects of the trailer. Splicing in a Harness I opted to splice a new harness myself and also went with a junction box. I considered using packard connectors, but they don’t seem readily available and more I searched for them it sounded like they weren’t used that often anymore, replaced by a new, more modern harness option. Not far from the front of the trailer box, you’ll find the packard connectors. These are quick disconnects and you’ll be able to completely remove the original 12-pin harness. From here, you have a few different options. M1101/2 Junction Box Wiring 7-pin (7-blade) junction box setup—this will also give me future expansion for possible camping lights, rock lights, or even a small battery setup. Original M1101 Wiring Harness The factory setup includes: It’s durable—but not practical. You can adapt it… but after digging into it, I realized: Rewire vs. Adapter You’ve got two paths: Option 1 — Rewire at the Packard Connections (What I Did) ✔ Clean✔ Reliable✔ Upgradable Option 2 — Adapter ✔ Quick plug and play – no splicing✔ Retains originally 12-pin harness✖ More expensive The Setup I Went With (Simple + Future-Proof) Here’s what I installed: This gives me: The Wiring Diagram (What Connects Where) This is the standard 7-pin layout I used: White → Ground – I ran a ground wire from the junction block to the existing ground near the disconnectsBrown → 22 460 Running lights Red → 22 461 Left turn / brake Green → 21 A Right turn / brake Inside the junction box, each of these wires gets its own terminal—making everything clean and serviceable. Grounding If your lights flicker, dim, or act weird… it’s almost always a bad ground. Again, I simply ran a ground wire from the grounding terminal in the junction box to the same ground location that was near the quick disconnects. Tips to use: This alone eliminates 90% of trailer wiring issues. Bonus: Wire It for Future You Even if you don’t need it yet, a 7-blade junction box is ready for: Trust me—you’ll want these later. Prep Work I ordered my harness several months ago and finally started getting around to installing it. I noticed since then some junction boxes have color coding on them. I decided to buy some oil-based paint markers so I could color code mine. It’s a lot easier than trying to read the raised plastic text. Here’s after I color coded the ends of the terminals with the paint markers. Later, I also added a stripe to the plastic just in case the terminal paint fades or peels off. M1101 12v Conversion For my installation, I ended up cutting the 3 necessary wires and crimped on non-insulated ring terminals. I cut a slit in one of the grommets of the junction box and pulled the wires through. Noticed I also added color-coded zip ties to the original M1101 wiring to match what terminal the wire needed to go to. I figured this was also easier than reading a number code on the metal tags and having to cross-reference it if I ever had to remove them for some reason. Next, it was time to make the connections. Mounting the Junction Box I ended up marking the holes for where I would bolt the junction box. I drilled the holes and then installed rivet nuts (also called riv nuts for short). Some might try self tapping screws, but I’ve found more and more projects where I’m using these rivet nuts. The junction box I purchased had 2 mounting tabs, one on each end. Here’s the first riv nut installed. Mounted and Installed 24V Lights vs 12V You technically can run the stock 24V tail lights. They certainly won’t be as bright since they were designed for twice the voltage. Since mine were mismatched when I bought the trailer, I decided to go with a new pair, but these are the taillights that came on my trailer. Especially in daylight, the passenger side incadescent wasn’t nearly as bright as the LED light that had apparently been swapped in at some point by the military. Running a “trailer light test” from the truck (hence the lights flashing). And here’s the passenger side light which I assume was original to the trailer: I swapped mine to LED HUMVEE replacement lights that were listed as 12V lights, they were made by Hecasa. Time will tell how these perform, but so far so good. When I bought my trailer

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⚠️ Cybertruck PCS Issue? My PowerShare Failure → “Fixed Itself” → 24A Limit → Rev G Replacement (Full Timeline)

Automotive, Cybertruck, Electric Vehicles, Tesla / April 7, 2026

I wanted to share a full timeline of a PCS (Power Conversion System) issue I just went through with my Cybertruck, because the way it failed was not obvious at first. This is certainly an increasingly known issue. This might help if you’re seeing weird PowerShare behavior or charging limitations. ⚡ Phase 1: PowerShare Worked… But Intermittent During a recent outage, I used PowerShare to run the house. It worked, but: My daughter’s were home from school after a closure because of the storm that knocked out power throughout the town. They mentioned the internet was frequently dropping and lights would occasionally flicker. I reached out to Tesla, but they recommended I reach out to my electrician. No response from my electrician, so I decided to see if I could get anywhere with Tesla again. ⚠️ Phase 2: “Unable to Charge” Error (Weeks Later) A few weeks later I got: “Vehicle unable to charge” When I checked the details: 👉 It pointed to a PCS / PowerShare-related fault So I scheduled a service appointment. In the error log, I noticed it had a second PCS2_a095 error that mentioned PowerShare unavailable. 🔄 Phase 3: It Starts Charging Again (False Confidence) Here’s where it gets tricky… I left the truck plugged into my 120V UMC, and about a day later: 👉 It started charging again like normal. So I: In hindsight… probably a mistake. However, I also wasn’t confident with Tesla’s response that they knew what the issue truly was. ⚡ Phase 4: 240V Charging Exposes the Real Issue Several days later, I plugged into a 240V EVSE. Immediately noticed: At that point, I was pretty confident: 👉 PCS issue wasn’t gone—it was just partially failing So I rescheduled service. 🔧 Phase 5: Tesla Replaces PCS (Now “Rev G”) Tesla diagnosed it and replaced the PCS under warranty. Apparently they’ve updated this component multiple times. Ideally this will be a permanent fix. I’ve heard this is several thousands of dollars to fix if out of warranty. 🧠 What Made This Hard to Catch This wasn’t a clean failure. It: 👉 It gave just enough normal behavior to second-guess the issue. 🔍 Key Symptom to Watch For If I had to call out the biggest red flag: Charging capped at 24A on 240V That seems to be a strong indicator something isn’t right with the PCS. 🛠️ Where I’m At Now (2 Weeks Later) I’m about 4 weeks into the new Rev G PCS: But I’m definitely watching it closely. 🔁 What I’m Doing Differently Now Going forward: 💡 Takeaways for Other Owners If you’re seeing anything weird: Tesla had asked me several questions when I first contacted them. They asked if there were any other accessories I had installed on the truck, if I had used the power receptacles in the vault for anything, etc. My rescheduled appointment was nearly a month out. It certainly seems they are more aware of the issue now. Many feel this should be a recall, I definitely agree with the number of failures that seem to continue to pop up.

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I Turned a 55-Gallon Oil Drum and Cable Spool Into an Industrial Table

Projects / April 2, 2026

upcycling a mobile oil barrel drum and wood cable spool end into a functional table

In this project, I built a DIY oil drum table using a reclaimed 55-gallon Mobil barrel and a wooden cable spool. What started as a couple of scrap pieces turned into a solid industrial-style table that works great for a deck, shop, or garage. Combining a cable spool table top with a steel drum base creates a unique piece of upcycled barrel furniture that’s both durable and functional. If you’ve ever thought about building a 55 gallon drum table or tackling a barrel table DIY project, this is a simple place to start. The Finished Table Here’s the finished table after mounting the cable spool top to the 55-gallon oil drum. For this build, I used a Mobil synthetic lubricant drum, which adds to the industrial look. Instead of repainting it, I kept the original finish to preserve that authentic feel. The wood cable spool top pairs nicely with the barrel, and the round glass piece on top gives the table a smooth, finished surface while protecting the wood underneath. Materials Used How I Built a DIY Oil Drum Table Disassembling the Cable Spool The cable spool I picked up had three square-shaped nuts holding the bolts in place. After removing those nuts, the spool completely disassembled, making it easy to separate the top piece that would be used as the tabletop. Measuring and Centering the Barrel Next, I measured the diameter of both the barrel and the spool top to figure out the correct positioning. Once I had the center point, I flipped the spool top over and drew a circle on the underside to mark where the barrel would sit. This made it much easier to align everything correctly before drilling. Marking and Drilling the Barrel Using the existing holes in the spool, I marked three hole locations onto the barrel. After marking those positions, I drilled through the barrel to create mounting points. Because drilling metal can create sparks and heat, it’s important to make sure the barrel is completely clean and free of any oil residue before doing this step. Installing Threaded Inserts To secure the tabletop, I installed threaded nut inserts directly into the barrel. This allowed the bolts to thread into the barrel without needing access to the inside, making the assembly much cleaner and easier. Mounting the Cable Spool Table Top With the inserts installed, I used three 3-inch stainless steel ¼-20 bolts to secure the spool top to the barrel. Once tightened down, the oil drum table felt very solid with no wobble. Using a steel drum as the base gives this industrial table DIY project a lot of stability compared to lighter builds. Adding the Glass Top The cable spool already came with a round glass top, which I placed over the wood surface. This gives the cable spool table a smoother finish while protecting the wood from wear. Finishing the Industrial Barrel Table At this stage, the 55 gallon drum table was complete and ready to use. The spool had already been stained when I bought it, but I may sand it down and apply a fresh coat of Varathane in the future. I also plan to spray a clear coat onto the barrel to preserve the original finish and prevent rust while keeping the industrial look intact. Why Cable Spools and Oil Drums Work So Well Cable spools are great for DIY furniture because they already provide a solid, round tabletop made from thick wood. Pairing one with a steel drum creates a strong base, making this type of upcycled barrel furniture both sturdy and unique. What Should I Build With My Next Barrel? I still have one more 55-gallon drum and haven’t decided what to build with it yet. Some ideas I’m considering: If you have ideas for projects using a 55-gallon drum, leave them in the comments below.

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Cybertruck Integrated Central Control Storage Box Installation & Review (TesStudio / CyberGearCo)

Automotive, Cybertruck, Electric Vehicles, Tesla / December 8, 2025

tesla cybertruck center console organizer

Ongoing Review: Fitment, Durability, Noise & Storage Performance Over Time Cybertruck Integrated Central Control Storage Box: Installation, MOLLE Integration & Ongoing Review The Tesla Cybertruck features some of the most unique interior design choices of any modern vehicle—and while the center aisle area is spacious, it’s also underutilized. After experimenting with different organization options and MOLLE accessories, I finally purchased the Integrated Central Control Storage Box from Amazon, a modular center console upgrade distributed by TesStudio, CyberGearCo, and several other vendors. I picked mine up on Amazon during a Black Friday sale for $224.99 (sold by TesStudio under the Amazon name TESCYBERMODS). Today, this organizer typically retails between $269.99–$299.99, depending on the seller. Currently, there’s a coupon on Amazon bringing the price down to $269.99. This article includes:✔ Full installation steps✔ MOLLE panel mounting details✔ What fits (and what doesn’t)✔ Pros & cons✔ Future modification ideas✔ And an ongoing review section that I’ll update over time—including durability, squeaks, rattles, and storage performance. Why I Upgraded My Cybertruck Center Console I previously added a Foronetry Floor Lower Center Console Mat so I could mount a BuiltRight Industries Tech Panel MOLLE without drilling into Tesla’s OEM interior. I mounted a fire extinguisher using Quick Fist clamps, and while this setup worked, it didn’t offer the organizational structure I wanted. The Integrated Central Control Storage Box fills this space perfectly, adds multiple compartments, and provides an ideal mounting platform for additional gear. It also adds extra storage for phones—but it would have been even better if the manufacturer had included inductive charging, especially given that Tesla’s OEM wireless chargers are known to have reliability issues. Hopefully future revisions include this. Installation Guide for the Cybertruck Integrated Storage Box Installation took me around 20–25 minutes. Here are the official steps from the included manual, followed by my hands-on notes. Installation Steps My Real-World Assembly Notes Instruction reference: Finished install: MOLLE Panel Integration (BuiltRight Industries) After installing the organizer, I re-mounted my existing BuiltRight MOLLE Tech Panel directly onto the new storage box. The process was simple: I originally mounted a fire extinguisher on my MOLLE panel when I previously had this tech plate installed on a Foronetry Floor Lower Center Console Mat, but after a quick test fit, it was clear the extinguisher was too tall for the new console. For now, I swapped to my KC HiLiTES multi-tool flashlight using a Quick Fist mount. I may add a second flashlight or explore alternative MOLLE-mounted accessories. This mod is one of my favorite aspects of the new console—mounting gear to the organizer instead of the factory Cybertruck interior keeps everything reversible and clean. Review: Pros & Cons After Initial Installation ⭐ Pros ✔ Significantly increases usable storage From compartments to phone slots and side pockets, the upgrade makes the Cybertruck’s center aisle far more functional. ✔ OEM-style fit and finish Once assembled, the unit feels sturdy with a clean, factory-like appearance. ✔ MOLLE-friendly mounting surface Perfect for flashlights, tools, radios, or emergency gear. ✔ Straightforward assembly Other than two tight-fitting pieces, the installation is beginner-friendly. ⚠️ Cons & Wish List ❗ No inductive charging included The organizer adds storage for phones—but misses a huge opportunity by not including wireless charging.Given Tesla’s history of OEM inductive charging issues, this would’ve been a major selling point. ❗ Tight tolerances on Parts D & F These sections require patience and extra effort. ❗ Cupholders may go unused Functionally fine, but I’m not convinced I’ll use them often. Future Modifications I’m Planning I’m already considering the next steps: Ongoing Long-Term Review (Updates Coming) Over the next several weeks and months, I will update this article with: Bookmark this page—more updates coming. Final Thoughts (Initial Verdict) At its current price point, especially when discounted, the Integrated Central Control Storage Box is one of the most useful interior upgrades for the Cybertruck. It adds meaningful storage, improves organization, and gives you a solid platform for MOLLE-mounted accessories. While inductive charging would have made the phone slot far better, the overall utility of this upgrade still makes it worth the buy.

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Building a Custom Outdoor Television Enclosure (Work in Progress)

Wood Projects / September 24, 2025

work-in-progress, custom outdoor television enclosure

One of the latest projects I’ve been tinkering with is building a custom outdoor television enclosure for our covered deck. This has been a bit of a trial-and-error journey, but I’m enjoying the challenge of blending function, durability, and a little bit of rustic design. The TV: A Big Experiment The centerpiece of this build is a 6-year-old 84″ Samsung television that I picked up used. It’s definitely not designed for outdoor use, so this whole project is a balancing act between creating a functional outdoor entertainment setup and protecting the TV as best as possible. The TV sits beneath an overhang, which will shield it from direct rain or snow, but there are other factors to consider: For now, my plan is to leave the TV installed during the drier months (late spring through early fall) and possibly relocate it into our basement when humidity spikes. I’ll also experiment with desiccant bags inside the enclosure to help mitigate condensation. The Enclosure Build The frame of the enclosure is constructed primarily from 2x4s and pine shelfboard, giving it plenty of structure to hold the TV securely. To finish the look, I decided to get creative with some upcycled pallet slats. Each pallet board was milled with a shiplap groove, giving the front a rustic but clean look. For trim, I used cedar fencing pickets, which tie in nicely with the natural wood siding of the cabin. I considered a cedar tongue and groove to match the exterior wall, but since this protrudes out as much as it doesn’t, I wasn’t exactly looking to blend it in. The cost of cedar was once again a huge cost deterrent and made the upcycled pallet slaps that much more appealing for this build as well. Initial frame build, showing the TV mounted inside. Access & Usability One of the challenges with a big, heavy front panel is making it easy to open and close. To solve this, I’ll be installing gas struts—similar to what you’d find on the liftgate of an SUV. These will help support the weight of the door, making it safer and smoother to access the television. Next Steps This project is still in progress, but upcoming steps include: It’s a mix of function and experiment. At the very least, this enclosure should give us a fun summer setup for outdoor movie nights, even if the TV’s long-term survival is still a bit of an unknown. Lessons Learned So Far

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🔥 XKGlow Cybertruck Light Bar Review & Install Guide

Automotive, Cybertruck, Electric Vehicles / August 1, 2025

xkglow tesla cybertruck lightbar installation and review

Is the XKGlow XKMAX Light Bar Worth It for Tesla Cybertruck? If you’re searching for a XKGlow Cybertruck light bar review or trying to figure out how to install one on your Tesla Cybertruck, you’re in the right place. I recently installed the XKGlow XKMAX Roof Light Bar (MX-CTLB) on my Cybertruck, and in this guide I’ll walk you through: 🛠️ Tools & Materials Needed: 🔌 How to Install the XKGlow Cybertruck Light Bar 1. Test the Light Bar First (Pre-install) 2. Access the Roof Power Feed 3. Connect the Wiring Harness Using the included heat-shrink solder connectors: Apply heat until the solder melts and the connector fully seals. 👉 This creates a strong, weather-resistant connection. 4. Position the Light Bar 5. Enable Roof Power (Cybertruck UI) 6. Install Mounting Hardware 7. Secure to the Cybertruck Roof (this is the most tedius step) Even with the shortened allen head wrench provided, it is extremely tight to try and get inside of the XKGlow bracket to tighten the bolts, especially the ones towards the front of the truck. In my opinion, it would have been better if they had holes drilled out on top of the bracket to fit the allen head wrench through. 8. Align & Tighten 9. Mount the Controller 10. Setup the App & Customize Tip: Change the default mode in the app under Config > Default Mode 🌟 Product Review: XK Glow XKMAX Light Bar for Tesla Cybertruck ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️½ (4.5/5) 🔦 Performance (Brightness & Output) This thing is seriously bright. Perfect for: 📲 App & Smart Features The XKGlow app is surprisingly solid: It’s not just a light bar—it’s a fully customizable lighting system. 🧰 Installation Experience If you’ve done basic wiring before, this is very manageable. What stood out: Biggest challenge: 🧼 Fit, Finish & Design This is where the XKGlow light bar really shines. ⚠️ Things to Know Before Buying 🤔 Is the XKGlow Cybertruck Light Bar Worth It? ✅ Yes — if you want: ❌ Maybe not if: Final Thoughts The XKGlow Cybertruck Light Bar is one of the better-designed aftermarket lighting upgrades available right now. It combines: …and actually feels like it was built for the Cybertruck. I’ll continue updating this post over time with: Biggest Complaints As mentioned on step 7, it’s very tight trying to fit the shortened allenhead wrench inside of the mounting bracket to secure the light bar to the vehicle. Additional design considerations should have been implemented. Offroad performance: This is a one I’m trying to find my own solution for. I’ve used the off-road light bar on forest roads. Around 30-35mph I’ve noticed the light “bounce”. The bracket mounting location is too far back from the light. You can push up on the bracket and see there’s flex. This causing the bracket to move just enough to where you’ll see the light bounce in front of you on uneven surfaces. I may use reinforcement brackets attached to my cross bar to see if that does the trick. If it’s still not rigid enough, a modification of the XKGlow bracket might be in the future for me. Tesla has moved from the adhesive mounting of the OEM lightbar to a bracket system that connects underneath the applique. A reinforcement bracket welded into the XKGlow should tighten things up, but pre-runner style reinforcement bars would be much faster to fabricate and install. Cybertruck XKGlow installation instructions provided by the manufacturer which currently seem to have a broken link from their product listing on their website.

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How to Mount Quick Fists on a MOLLE Panel Using MOLLE Nuts

Uncategorized / April 26, 2025

How to install quick fists on a Molle panel

Installing gear on a MOLLE panel can be quick, clean, and secure with the right technique. One of the best ways to mount Quick Fist clamps is by using MOLLE nuts. Below, I’ll walk you through exactly how to do it, along with some extra tips and options if you want even more flexibility for your setup. Materials Needed Step-by-Step Instructions 1. Run the Bolt Through the Quick Fist Start by running a bolt of the correct length through the mounting hole of the Quick Fist. ➡️ Tip: Make sure it’s long enough to pass through both the Quick Fist and the MOLLE panel and still catch the MOLLE nut securely. 2. Thread the MOLLE Nut Onto the Bolt Loosely thread a MOLLE nut onto the end of the bolt — but don’t tighten it yet. You’ll need it to remain loose to fit it through the panel opening. 3. Insert Through the MOLLE Panel Position the MOLLE nut so it fits through the slot on your MOLLE panel. The nut should slip into the panel opening with some minor wiggling if needed. 4. Tighten Everything Down Once the MOLLE nut is in place behind the panel and everything is aligned, tighten the bolt. As you do, the MOLLE nut will “wedge” and lock into place, securing your Quick Fist clamp tightly. Why Use MOLLE Nuts? MOLLE nuts create a strong “wedge” fitment that holds your accessories securely without needing backing plates or complicated hardware. They also make it easy to reposition your mounts later without having to remove your whole MOLLE panel. Different MOLLE Nut Options I’ve used several types of MOLLE nuts across different panels: Where to Buy Final Thoughts Mounting Quick Fists to your MOLLE panel with MOLLE nuts is a simple and reliable upgrade that keeps your gear secure and easily accessible. Whether you’re setting up recovery gear, tools, or other essentials, this method makes it fast, clean, and modular. If you’re setting up a build or considering a full MOLLE storage system, this is a technique you’ll definitely want in your toolbox!

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Inside the Redbox Videri TV Screen Topper: A Peek Behind the Curtain

Projects, Redbox / April 21, 2025

If you’ve ever rented a movie from a Redbox kiosk, you may have noticed digital screen topper looping through ads, movie trailers, and promos on some of the newer indoor models. These aren’t just dumb screens — they’re powered by Videri digital signage tech. I was able to purchase one when I bought my Redbox kiosk. From Redbox to Videri Canvas Once you remove the screen from the Redbox metal enclosure, you’re left with the actual Videri Canvas display — a commercial-grade smart screen designed to run proprietary content from Videri’s platform. It’s running locked-down software out of the box, but here’s where things get fun: modders have figured out how to jailbreak these. That’s right — there’s an entire community of hobbyists and tech tinkerers who are breathing new life into these displays, repurposing them for custom dashboards, media players, smart signage, and more. Opening Up the Back Panel To get inside, start by removing the small Phillips-head screws from the back panel of the Videri screen. Once the back cover is off, you’ll have access to a few different internal circuit boards, one of which is especially important — the one with a Micro USB 3.0 port. Here is where you will find the Micro USB 3.0 port on the Redbox Videri screens. This port is your gateway. You’ll need to connect an OTG hub here. Your hub will include: Once connected, you’re in a good position to begin exploring or attempting a jailbreak — which is exactly what I plan to do next. Join the Community If you’re diving into this project too, I highly recommend checking out the Redbox.wiki — it’s full of helpful documentation and teardown photos from other users. Even better, join the Redbox Modding Discord community, where people are actively sharing updates, jailbreak methods, custom builds, and troubleshooting help. It’s the best place to collaborate with others who are unlocking the potential of these discarded displays. Stay Tuned… Now that I’ve got access to the internals and confirmed OTG functionality, I’ll be exploring possible jailbreak options and testing what this thing can really do. This is just the beginning. Have any questions, or are you modding one yourself? Drop a comment below or hit me up. I’d love to see what others are doing with these screens!

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Tesla PowerShare – What is It?

Home Improvement, Smart Home / April 9, 2025

Tesla’s PowerShare system offers an innovative solution for homeowners seeking reliable backup power by enabling their Cybertruck to supply electricity to their homes during outages. This integration ensures that essential appliances and systems remain operational when the grid goes down. Cost of the PowerShare Gateway and Installation A standard PowerShare installation requires a Tesla Gateway 3V and a Universal Wall Connector. The installation cost varies based on the configuration and complexity of the setup. Tesla estimates the installation cost ranging from $2,000 to $4,000, excluding the cost of equipment. However, several owners have found largely inflated estimates from electricians. For precise pricing, it’s advisable to consult a Tesla Certified Installer who can assess your home’s specific requirements. Owner Experiences and Reported Issues One major annoyance is you’re currently unable to test your PowerShare immediately after installation. You have to wait for Tesla to apparently manually configure a few things on their end, which for most users, seems to be at least 3 days after installation. It would be great to have the ability to ensure everything is functional before your electrician leaves. Hopefully Tesla changes this in the future. Alternative Options: Manual Transfer Switches For those exploring other backup power solutions, manual transfer switches present a viable alternative. These devices allow homeowners to connect a generator to their home’s electrical system manually during outages. The cost to install a manual transfer switch typically ranges from $400 to $1,300, depending on the complexity and regional labor rates. While more affordable, manual transfer switches require users to engage the system manually during a power loss, which may not be as seamless as Tesla’s automated solution. The Cybertruck’s power outlets will also turn off after 12 hours. Customer Service and Support Tesla’s customer service for PowerShare installations involves coordination with Certified Installers. The overall experience can vary based on the chosen installer and regional factors. Some users have expressed concerns about communication and clarity regarding installation requirements, especially when integrating multiple Tesla energy products. Is the PowerShare System Worth It? Deciding whether the PowerShare system is a worthwhile investment depends on individual needs and circumstances. For Cybertruck owners seeking a seamless and integrated backup power solution, PowerShare offers the convenience of utilizing their vehicle’s battery to power their home. However, it’s essential to consider the installation costs and potential complexities, and any reported issues. Comparatively, manual transfer switches offer a more budget-friendly option but lack the automation and integration of Tesla’s system. While manual transfer switches are substantially cheaper, it really comes down to convenience and how much you’re willing to pay for some more automation. Since the Powershare hardware was included in the Foundation Series edition of the Cybertruck, I opted to go with the PowerShare. The quotes I received for installation were certainly more than I wanted to pay, however, allowing my wife and kids not to have to worry about manually connecting anything if they were home when I wasn’t was a big plus for me. In conclusion, potential users should thoroughly assess their home’s compatibility, consult with certified installers for accurate quotes, and weigh the benefits against the costs to determine if Tesla’s PowerShare system aligns with their backup power needs.

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Redbox Mods: Rescuing and Repurposing a Redbox Kiosk for Home Use

Projects, Redbox / March 31, 2025

For years, Redbox kiosks were a familiar sight outside grocery stores and gas stations, offering DVD and Blu-ray rentals at the push of a button. However, with the rise of streaming services, Redbox struggled to stay relevant. In June 2024, its parent company, Chicken Soup for the Soul Entertainment, filed for bankruptcy, leaving thousands of these kiosks abandoned. Many Redbox kiosks have already been scrapped, but a small group of enthusiasts, including myself, have stepped in to preserve and repurpose them. If you’re curious how to obtain a Redbox for home use or are curious about Redbox mods, hacks, and reverse engineering, this post will walk you through my experience of acquiring one and my plans for bringing it back to life. How to Obtain a Redbox for Home With many kiosks being decommissioned, several have been some scrapped. Some are available from private sellers, or direct negotiations with store/property managers. If you’re interested in how to obtain a Redbox for home use, we’ll post an article with more tips later. However, be prepared—these machines are heavy, often requiring a truck and at least two people to move them. Some have even been able to get a kiosk into a minivan. I purchased a fully intact Redbox kiosk, complete with a 6-card topper and a digital Videri TV screen topper through a Craigslist ad. The plan? To get it functional for personal use and explore Redbox reverse engineering to unlock its full potential. Redbox Mods & Hacks: What’s Possible? The ultimate challenge with Redbox mods is figuring out how to bypass the proprietary software and hardware restrictions. While Redbox operated on a closed system, there are several potential ways to repurpose these kiosks: Redbox Resources Two of the best resources on Redbox kiosks I’ve found are Redbox.wiki and the Redbox Tinkering Discord Channel. The Future of Redbox Kiosks While these kiosks might not be considered nostalgic just yet, in 10–20 years, they could become sought-after collector’s items—much like vintage Coke machines, Jukeboxes, etc. Since most kiosks are being scrapped, those that remain will only become rarer over time. If you’re interested in Redbox hacks or have experience working with these kiosks, be sure to comment below! Stay tuned as I document my journey into repurposing this piece of movie rental history. Next steps for me are to try and get the software loaded to load and dispense movies and get the Videri display functional. Since I have the kiosk at our cabin, it will be a bit of a slow project.

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