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Installing gear on a MOLLE panel can be quick, clean, and secure with the right technique. One of the best ways to mount Quick Fist clamps is by using MOLLE nuts. Below, I’ll walk you through exactly how to do it, along with some extra tips and options if you want even more flexibility for your setup. Materials Needed Step-by-Step Instructions 1. Run the Bolt Through the Quick Fist Start by running a bolt of the correct length through the mounting hole of the Quick Fist. ➡️ Tip: Make sure it’s long enough to pass through both the Quick Fist and the MOLLE panel and still catch the MOLLE nut securely. 2. Thread the MOLLE Nut Onto the Bolt Loosely thread a MOLLE nut onto the end of the bolt — but don’t tighten it yet. You’ll need it to remain loose to fit it through the panel opening. 3. Insert Through the MOLLE Panel Position the MOLLE nut so it fits through the slot on your MOLLE panel. The nut should slip into the panel opening with some minor wiggling if needed. 4. Tighten Everything Down Once the MOLLE nut is in place behind the panel and everything is aligned, tighten the bolt. As you do, the MOLLE nut will “wedge” and lock into place, securing your Quick Fist clamp tightly. Why Use MOLLE Nuts? MOLLE nuts create a strong “wedge” fitment that holds your accessories securely without needing backing plates or complicated hardware. They also make it easy to reposition your mounts later without having to remove your whole MOLLE panel. Different MOLLE Nut Options I’ve used several types of MOLLE nuts across different panels: Where to Buy Final Thoughts Mounting Quick Fists to your MOLLE panel with MOLLE nuts is a simple and reliable upgrade that keeps your gear secure and easily accessible. Whether you’re setting up recovery gear, tools, or other essentials, this method makes it fast, clean, and modular. If you’re setting up a build or considering a full MOLLE storage system, this is a technique you’ll definitely want in your toolbox!

When my wife first wanted to look at getting a bed for our small office space at our cabin, I knew I didn’t want it to be a full-time use of the limited space. I had seen Murphy bed’s online before, and quickly started exploring options. The DIY route quickly became the path I wanted to take. Eventually, I came across the Rockler I-Semble Murphy Bed Kit. It caught my eye for a couple of reasons: the cambered wood slats and hydraulic lifters. Unlike other kits that use springs, the hydraulic lifters in the Rockler kit promised smoother operation and greater durability. My primary focus was on getting the bed built so any guests we had over could use it. However, finishing the trim work was always on my to-do list, and now I finally got around to it. Here’s how I transformed my Murphy bed from functional to finished. The Initial Build: Function Over Form The Rockler I-Semble Murphy Bed Kit made the construction process straightforward. The cambered wood slats provided excellent support and comfort, while the hydraulic lifters ensured that the bed could be easily opened and closed without much effort. The Rockler Murphy Bed kit comes with all the necessary hardware, you just need to get the plywood you plan to use. If you haven’t already, be sure to check out my original post on How to Build a Murphy Bed. The gap above the bed and laminated wood ply edges was a constant reminder that the job wasn’t completely done. With all of that out of the way, not it’s time to get this Muprhy bed trimmed out and finished. Starting the Trim Work: Framing the Gap The first step in my long-overdue trim project was to address the gap above the Murphy bed. I opted to frame it with 2x4s, which provided a sturdy and reliable base for the trim work. This step made sure that the the trim would have a solid foundation to easily attach to. Adding the Tongue and Groove Pine With the frame in place, it was time to move on to the tongue and groove pine boards. These would cover the exposed frame and give the Murphy bed a more finished and cohesive appearance. The pine slats I used were repurposed from a closet I removed to make room for our racing arcade cabinets in the game loft. The Finished Look The trim work closed up the gap above the Murphy bed and gave it a polished, built-in look. The natural wood grain of the pine added warmth and character to the room as it matches the same material used for the ceiling. These trim slats however have not had the same UV exposure and are currently quite a bit lighter. After time, they’ll darken just like the ceiling pieces. Reflections on the Project While the initial build was all about functionality, adding the trim has elevated the bed to a central feature in the room. The project wasn’t overly complicated, but the impact of the finished trim is significant. It’s a reminder that sometimes, it’s the small details that make the biggest difference. If you’re considering building a Murphy bed or have one that’s in need of some finishing touches, I highly recommend investing the time to complete the trim work. Not only does it improve the aesthetic appeal, but it also adds a sense of accomplishment and pride in your DIY project. Tools and Materials Used: Here’s a list of the tools and supplies I used for the trim work: Tips for a Successful Trim Project: Wiring You probably noticed I notched out a section of the slats for wires to pass through. These are the wiring for the hanging pendant lights I used in this room. I’m considering running this wire through a bead blasted metal conduit pipe. That will likely come in the next few months. Conclusion I’m sure several of us have unfinished projects, I have many. This is one I was completely focused on getting the core structure and functionality of the bed built, but knew I wouldn’t get back around to finishing it off with trim for a while. It took just over two years for me to get back around to this one, but I’m glad it didn’t take any longer. There can be a lot of time involved in detail work like this, but the end result makes a huge difference from something that can look half done to that completed masterpiece.